This limestone massif has a number of peaks and ridges over 2000 metres in a horseshoe shape and has a series of forest types that change with altitude. The variety of forest types and altitude of the mountain combined with its close proximity to Myanmar result in a large number of exciting birds found here as well as some excellent views and a relaxing atmosphere.

The forests of Doi Chiang Dao are very intact, although there is a small hilltribe population in one corner of the park, but most of this area is too steep for it to come under much threat. Periodically the Thai government come up with plans to build a cable car to the summit, but currently this appears to be forgotten - thankfully!

Two species are the main target birds for most birders here: Giant Nuthatch and Hume's Pheasant. Both of these occur around the higher areas of the National Park where they are regularly seen. Another highly sought-after bird which seems to be fairly regularly encountered at the higher altitudes is Scaly Thrush. Be careful not to mistake female Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush (which is quite common) for this species to which it bears a passing resemblance, especially if not seen well.

Grey-headed Parrotbill, Crested Finchbill, various Thrushes and Black-tailed Crake are other memorable birds that have been seen higher up the mountain.

The lower levels of Doi Chiang Dao offer the opportunity to see a different set of forest birds and some open country species. In the "spring" months Streaked Wren Babbler is easily spotted near the temple, around the limestone outcrops. Don't confuse this with the similar looking calcicola subspecies of Limestone Wren Babbler which is only found in the region of Saraburi province.

In the gullies and damp patches around the base of the Chiang Dao massif, secretive species such as Slaty-bellied Tesia, Scaly-breasted Partridge, White-crowned Forktail, Hooded Pitta and Rusty-naped Pitta can be discovered with patience.

If birders spend time at the top of the mountain, around the bottom and visit some of the farmed areas, then a very high number of species will be seen.

Getting to Doi Chiang Dao is fairly easy if coming from the north or south. Most people arrive in Chiang Mai by bus from Bangkok's Mor Chit terminal, but look out for good deals on flights from Bangkok and I'm told the train is a pleasant if rather slow option. The bus journey takes about 9-10 hours, the train takes about 17 hours and the plane takes about 45 minutes.

From Chiang Mai take a bus from the Chang Puek (Albino elephant) bus station to TaTorn; these leave about once every hour. Tell the conductor that you will get off at Chiang Dao and he will tell you when to get off: the journey takes about 2.5 hours. In Chiang Dao walk northwards along the road to the junction for Chiang Dao cave which is signposted in English and wait for a motorcycle taxi. Sometimes one has to wait for 15-20 minutes for the motorcycle but I do not suggest walking as it is about 5 Kms; not that far, but in the heat it is a long way. When a motorcycle taxi turns up simply tell the driver Malee's or Chiang Dao Nest, whichever you have chosen, and the driver will take you there.

If coming from the north it is a simple affair to catch the same bus from TaTorn to Chiang Mai getting off at Chiang Dao. The bus terminal in TaTorn is on the south side of the river. The journey from TaTorn to Chiang Dao takes about 3 hours.

Whilst staying at Doi Chiang Dao most birders want to take a trip to Den Ya Kat near the summit for the high altitude birds and this can be tricky. First one must get a permit to drive to DYK at park headquarters near Malee's; this is a simple affair. Then drive back to Chiang Dao (where there is a petrol station) and turn south towards Chiang Mai. After precisely 4.9 Kms there is a sign which says "checkpoint 20 Km" which has replaced the former green-roofed bus shelter landmark. A series of roads on the right all go towards the dirt track that heads up the mountain and one must simply twist and turn through the maze of roads until they funnel into one. Once this turns into a dirt track the quality deteriorates rapidly. If there has been wet weather the track is very hazardous and a 4-wheel drive vehicle is a must. In the dry season a regular vehicle may be sufficient - maybe not: click here for details of a trip here in 2002.

There is now a Chiang Dao by-pass which makes finding Malee's a little confusing. The above instructions are still the best way to find Malee's and Den Ya Kat. One will cross the highway when travelling to and from Chiang Dao.

Firebreak Trail (DYK) : About 1 kilometre before arriving at Den Ya Kat substation there is a sharp turn to the right and here there is a nice trail up a ridge along a firebreak. This trail is straight ahead as one drives towards the sharp right hand turn. There are many pine trees up here and there have been numerous sightings of Hume's Pheasant early in the morning as it crosses the firebreak. Other birds along this trail are Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush, Grey Treepie, Eurasian Jay and Rufous-gorgetted Flycatcher which seems unusually common here.

Summit Trail : This trail starts to the left of the substation, going through some grassland and then along some ridges. Quite a number of good birds can be seen along here, including Stripe-breasted Woodpecker, Hume's Pheasant and, of course, Giant Nuthatch which is reliably seen at the point marked, but naturally should be looked for all along this trail. In the grass quite a number of Bush Warblers skulk, but I've never seen any long enough to identify them; perhaps with the aid of a tape they could be lured out into the open. A small pond at the substation is reputed to be the home of Black-tailed Crake but it would be vital to spend the night here in order to see it, but plenty of other birds including Thrushes and Parrotbills can be seen on a day trip.

Birding Road : Once past the checkpoint the access road becomes a birding location in itself. Giant Nuthatch is often seen along here and Hume's Pheasant is sometimes seen running across the road - try not to run it over! There are plenty of places to stop the car and lots of good habitat where anything could turn up.
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Malee now has a rooftop restaurant, which is really nice, making full use of the great views here. Dinner is served around 7 pm but this is flexible , so that birders wishing to stay out late to look for Owls and Frogmouths are able to do so. Packed breakfasts and lunch are also available for those wishing to get out early and stay out all day, particularly if travelling to Den Ya Kat. Malee can arrange for a four-wheel drive vehicle and driver up to Den Ya Kat for 1500 baht, something I would recommend if the weather has been wet as the road up Doi Chiang Dao can be a treacherous mudslide. She can be contacted by e-mail maleenature@hotmail.com to book accommodation which might be necessary during the dry season and at weekends, otherwise just turn up. For those without their own transport Malee can arrange for pickup from Chiang Mai and the airport; a very convenient alternative to public transport! A bird log was started at Malee's some years ago and it continues to be a good source of information. Malee has high speed internet available, so please send me your notable observations.

Thrushes
This lovely book covers all of the thrushes in the world and is a useful reference for anyone hoping to see some migratory thrush species in northern Thailand. Beautiful plates by Ren Hathaway are accompanied by insightful and extensive species accounts.

Birds of Thailand
This field guide has set new standards in identifying birds in the wild in Thailand. With the most up-to-date taxonomy of any publication this is the book you need if you are birdwatching in Thailand. Forget all of the older guides and buy this one.

Wat Tam Pa Plong

Doi Chiang Dao Summit

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