Doi Lang, in Chiang Mai province, is
actually a collection of mountain ridges within the extensive
Doi Pha Hom Pok National Park; the site also includes an area
known locally as Doi San Ju. This location is one of the wildest
areas of Thailand that is accessible by car, affording fantastic
views across into Myanmar and providing birders with many
miles of fabulous roadside birding in a variety of upland
habitats with hardly any vehicular disturbance at all.
A narrow road forms a loop along the Thai-Myanmar border from
the town of Fang to the village of Thatorn but currently the
military does not allow through traffic so the East and West
sides of Doi Lang must be visited seperately; the East side
is accessed from Thatorn and the West side is accessed from
Fang.
The area of habitat here is huge and being this far north
it is a site that plays host to several species that cannot
be found anywhere else in Thailand as well as being a very
scenic location. With habitats that include pine forest, rice
paddies, orchards and moist forest the number of potential
species is very high and several days are essential to do
the site justice. With good accommodation in nearby small
towns and other birding locations nearby this is a great place
to spend time at exploring the area and enjoying what is probably
the best birding in Northern Thailand.
Although visiting the mountain is safe one should remember
that the road forms the border for much of its length and
should you wander off, accidently, into Myanmar the Thai military
will be unable to come to your assistance should anything
happen. There have, in the past, been signs along the road,
on the East side of the mountain, warning of land mines but
the signs have fallen down, so be mindful of this if thinking
of going off the road. There is another area of the road (currently
not accessible) where there was unexploded ordnance and it
is possible that there are other areas where this could be
an issue so it is best to stay on the road.
There are so many highlights at Doi Lang; it really is a
must-visit site for birding in the north of Thailand. This
represents the best opportunity anywhere in the world ranges
of Giant Nuthatch and Mrs Hume's Pheasant for birders to see
these species.
A few resident species are known only from Doi Lang, or a
couple of other sites, in Thailand. This site is the best
chance for most birders in Thailand to see Crimson-breasted
Woodpecker, Whiskered Yuhina, Spotted Wren Babbler, Himalayan
Cutia, Black-eared Shrike-babbler and Black-throated Bushtit
which is so cute someone should make a cuddly toy based on
it.
Parrotbills are a sought-after group of birds and at Doi Lang
there is a realistic chance of seeing Spot-breasted, Grey-headed
and Pale-billed (Lesser Rufous-headed) Parrotbills. Other
exciting resident species include Red-billed Scimitar Babbler,
Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler, White-browed Laughingthrush,
Scarlet-faced Liocichla and Spectacled Barwing.
Every year a couple of nests of Hodgson's Frogmouth are found
giving birders a unique opportunity to see this weird bird
in the daylight. For those who like night birding it is probably
a realistic target for calling in after dark. Other targets
for night birders would include Mountain Scops Owl, Brown
Wood Owl and Collared Scops Owl.
Between November and March there are large numbers of migrants
present on Doi Lang; large numbers of Leaf Warblers and Flycatchers
are notable with scarce birds such as Chinese Leaf Warbler,
Sapphire Flycatcher and Rufous-gorgetted Flycatcher being
regular. Himalayan Bluetail is quite a common but stunning
visitor and there have been sightings of Red-flanked Bluetail
and Golden Bush Robin too. If you like skulking birds Aberrant
Bush Warbler, White-bellied Redstart and Siberian Rubythroat
will be highlights.
This is the only regular site in Thailand for Fire-tailed
Sunbird, and this can be a real highlight if you can find
a male somewhere near breeding plumage feeding on buddleia.
Small seed-eating migrants are very scarce in Thailand but
Doi Lang gives birders a good chance of finding some great
birds such as Scarlet Finch, Black-headed Greenfinch, Little
Bunting, Crested Bunting and Chestnut Bunting - unfortunately,
the latter three are getting increasingly rare.
Some exciting raptors can be found here too with migrating
Amur Falcons and resident Mountain Hawk Eagles. This is a
really good site to find wintering Grey-faced Buzzard, Eastern
Buzzard and a lucky few may see Himalayan Griffon Vulture
- quite a sight if you do get lucky!
There really are so many highlights here that it is impossible
to see them all in one visit. This is a site that will make
you go back again and again; one of the most likely sites
for finding an addition to the Thai list in the whole country.
A checklist of the birds for this location can be found here
- Doi
Lang
Bird
Watching Trips:
If you need help organizing a bird watching trip to Thailand,
take a look at the suggested itineraries for ideas on
creating a tailor-made trip and contact me for advice:
Thailand
bird tours.
Travel Information
Use the interactive map below to plan your route to
Doi Lang. The blue line shows the route from Chiang Mai (Blue
Pin) to Doi Lang West/Doi San Ju (Green Pin) and to Doi Lang
East (Red Pin).
There are no restrictions on access to the West side of
Doi Lang and the road is in good condition so any vehicle
can make it up the mountain. However, driving up the East
side requires a sturdy vehicle with good ground clearance
as the quality of the road is extremely bad and border police
will not allow saloon cars or minivans to enter. There is
also a gate on the East side of the mountain with time restrictions;
entry before 7am is not allowed and visitors must exit by
5pm.
By Car/Motorcycle
It is essential to have your own transport to visit both sides
of Doi Lang. Hiring a car in Chiang Mai is the best thing
to do but for the adventurous budget traveller it is within
range to hire a motorcycle, but drive carefully there are
dangerous sections of the road! From Chiang Mai head north
on route 107 until reaching the town of Fang. Take care on
the stretch of road between Chiang Dao and Fang is quite narrow
for a main road, has lots of sharp corners and has a lot of
extremely slow trucks using it which are very difficult to
overtake safely. I would strongly advise not driving on this
road in the dark and make sure you allow lots of time for
this journey; being in a hurry could result in a bad accident.
On reaching Fang take the by-pass and after a few kilometres
there is a small cross roads with some traffic lights and
a signpost for Fang Hot Springs. For Doi Lang West/Doi San
Ju turn left here and continue through a number of small villages
for quite some distance until you get to a T-junction which
is tree-lined; turn right here and continue until you enter
the forest and ascend the mountain. For Doi Lang East one
must continue along the Fang by-pass and continue along route
107 until the village of Thatorn. A few hundred metres before
the river there is a left hand turning next to a bank, take
this road and continue until reaching a checkpoint. Here you
sign in and continue up the mountain, birding along the way
but remember, the road is in extremely poor condition.
By Bus
It is not possible to reach the birding sites of Doi Lang
by public transport. However, there are plenty of buses from
Chiang Mai's Chang Pueak bus station that go to Thatorn via
Fang, terminating in the village of Thatorn. From Thatorn
or Fang it is possible to charter a songtaew to take you up
either side of the mountain but unless you can speak Thai
you will have to try and do this through the hotel you stay
in.
By Taxi
Doi Lang is rather a long way from Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai
for a taxi to be a sensible option but it is possible to arrange
one through a hotel or agent before you arrive. It is not
impossible to charter a songtaew from either of these two
provincial capitals to use as a taxi but it would be complicated
and car hire would be a far better option and probably cheaper.
By Tuk Tuk or Motorcycle Taxi
Although both these styles of transport are abundant in Chiang
Mai and Chiang Rai it is far too far to Doi Lang for these
to be a viable means of accessing the mountain. Dangerous
and inefficient, not to be advised.
By Train
Chiang Mai city can be reached by train from Bangkok, many
people like to make an overnight journey, the timetable can
be seen here: Train
Travel from Bangkok to Chiang Mai. From here you can either
use the instructions above to get to Doi Lang by public transport
or private vehicle.
By Plane
Both Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai airports are about equidistant
from Doi Lang. From either airport it is possible to pick
up a hire vehicle which is the most convenient way to visit
Doi Lang. It is also possible to arrange a taxi to your accommodation
in either Fang or Thatorn from either airport, although you
would need to arrange transport onto the mountain from there
on.
Finding Birds
While there is good birding throughout the whole site there
are a number of areas that have been repeatedly productive
to birders and these are outlined here. However, the size
of the habitat is so large that lots of areas never get explored
and it is quite likely that there are surprises to be found
in areas of the mountain that are less frequently birded,
indeed, species continue to be added to the Thai list from
this site even from the spots that are frequently birded.
Doi Lang East
The road up this side is in very poor condition so drive
carefully or hire a local driver. For much of its length this
road actually forms the border between Thailand and Myanmar
so do not wander off into Myanmar where Thai authorities will
not be able to help you should you get into trouble. In the
recent past there have been signs warning of land mines on
both sides of the road; these signs have fallen down and I
do not know if the mines have been cleared so it is best to
stay on the road where you will be safe. Encountering any
local people along this road should be done with a smile and
caution as some birders have come across armed drug smugglers
coming over the border but you are more likely to meet hilltribe
farmers tending cattle.
Concrete
Bridge: As one comes down some steep slopes
the forest opens up at a large concrete bridge over a small
valley; this is a good spot to get a view over the forest
canopy and spot birds sitting out on exposed perches. Species
such as Ashy Drongo, Mountain Imperial Pigeon, Greater Racket-tailed
Drongo and Oriental Turtle Dove are frequent here but quite
a lot more is possible.
A couple of flowering trees in the area are a magnet to birds
if they are in bloom attracting Maroon Oriole, Grey-capped
Pygmy Woodpecker, Black Bulbul, Blue-throated Barbet, Stripe-breasted
Woodpecker and Slender-billed Oriole and probably a lot more
if you spend time waiting to see what turns up. If the trees
are not in flower, the birds are still about but it will take
more effort to see them.
Groups of small birds often pass through here including fast-moving
flocks of Striated Yuhina, Speckled Piculet, White-bellied
Erpornis, Yellow-browed Warbler and Fire-breasted Flowerpecker
while larger species are represented by the very difficult-to-see
White-necked Laughingthrush, which is usually extremely shy
but vocal. A few species of woodpecker seem to favour this
spot including both Greater and Lesser Yellownapes, Bay Woodpecker
and the mysterious Pale-headed Woodpecker which I have seen
more than once alongside the very similar Bamboo Woodpecker.
Long-tailed Broadbills sometimes come through here in large
flocks and it amazing to see large numbers of this spectacular
bird.
A good variety of birds occur here and being a little lower
down the mountain than many of the regular spots, many species
not seen elsewhere can be located here with luck including
Red-billed Scimitar Babbler, Collared Babbler and even Lesser
Rufous-headed Parrotbill but you will need to invest some
time for many of these secretive birds.
Hilltribe
Rice Fields: This area is seasonally farmed
by a small hilltribe community, irrigated by a small stream
and often containing domesticated water buffalo. Stopping
at the small bridge over the stream gives a good view across
most of the area and provides a nice photo opportunity as
well as allowing birders to scan for a variety of species.
In the early morning, particularly in the cool season (November
to February), this is a good place to spot birds perched out
in the open trying to catch the first of the morning sunshine.
Large numbers of Oriental Turtle Dove can often be seen on
the treetops here and open country birds that can be found
include Long-tailed Shrike, Black-collared Starling, Pied
Bushchat, White-throated Kingfisher and Chinese Pond Heron.
In the cool season these are also joined by one or two Grey-backed
Shrikes, Olive-backed Pipit, a few Siberian Rubythroats in
the undergrowth and a Grey-faced Buzzard or two.
Although they are rare these days, this is one of the better
places to look for buntings. In the field edges and grassy
scrub that surround these rice fields migrant Little Buntings
are regular in small numbers as are Chestnut Buntings which
can sometimes be found in flocks of double figures but more
likely in small groups. Crested Bunting favours tall grasses
in this general area and it is not impossible that other species
could be found, while Common Rosefinch can sometimes be found
in company of buntings here.
As the day warms up this can be a good location for raptor
watching. Grey-faced Buzzard, Oriental Honey-buzzard and Eastern
Buzzard are frequent during the cool season while Eurasian
Sparrowhawk can put in an appearance and Amur Falcon may be
seen in October/November. Resident raptors can include Mountain
Hawk Eagle, Rufous-bellied Eagle, Changeable Hawk Eagle, Black
Eagle and Crested Goshawk.
Border
Police Checkpoint: This area has long been
a favourite stop for birders and it is a convenient place
to park your vehicle and explore further along the road on
foot. For some years now the border police here have provided
fruit and rice for birds to feed on and it has become a very
reliable spot for Scarlet-faced Liocichla which is one of
the most stunning birds you will see in northern Thailand.
This feeding spot continually attracts several gangs of Dark-backed
Sibias to feed and when they become active Silver-eared Laughingthrush
and Spectacled Barwing are usually not far behind; both beautiful
birds when seen at such close range. Other resident species
that frequently come to feed at this spot include Blue Whistlingthrush
and Large Niltava. In the dry season a number of scarce migrants
are also attracted to this spot; Himalayan Bluetail and Rufous-gorgetted
Flycatcher are pretty much annual and migrant thrushes have
included Eyebrowed Thrush, Grey-winged Blackbird and Chestnut
Thrush over the last few years. This wonderful collection
of species is a good reason to spend time here, particularly
as the views that are obtained are usually excellent and close-up
- ideal for photographers.
Walking up and down the road from this spot is also usually
rewarding with flocks of small birds being frequent and usually
containing Davison's Leaf Warbler, Whiskered Yuhina, Rufous-winged
Fulvetta and Chestnut-crowned Warbler. Look out for the small
trees with tiny orange fruits along here which are favoured
by many species including Mountain Bulbul, Striated Bulbul
and Crested Finchbill.
Mossy trees in this area create a wonderful habitat and many
of them host epiphytic orchids which may take visitor's attention
away from the birds, but not for long given that Black-eared
Shrike-babbler, Chestnut-headed Tesia, Spotted Wren Babbler
and Crimson-breasted Woodpecker are all in the area but take
a lot more effort to find than many other species.
Forest
Ridge: The road extends along from the checkpoint,
several kilometres through moist forest all the way to San
Ju viewpoint. Making extended walks along the road at various
points usually provides good birding in the morning and late
afternoons with most of the mountain's high altitude speciality
species possible.
Flocks of smaller birds frequently forage along here and
frequently include Yunnan Fulvetta, Golden Babbler, Rufous-winged
Fulvetta, Chestnut-crowned Warbler, Grey-throated Babbler,
Yellow-cheeked Tit and in the "winter" migrant warblers
such as Hume's, Davison's, Pallas's and Buff-barred Leaf Warblers.
These flocks sometimes hold the beautiful Black-eared Shrike
Babbler, Yellow-browed Tit or even Himalayan Cutia too.
Flowering/fruiting trees and bushes often attract White-headed
Bulbul, Crested Finchbill and Whiskered Yuhina along here
as well as Orange-bellied Leafbird which can be incredibly
abundant in November/December; listen out for it, this species
is an amazing mimic. Bushes with small orange fruits are common
along this piece of road and really attract a wide range of
species and if you find one that has birds visiting it then
sitting and waiting is a good policy with Ashy, Mountain and
Striated Bulbul likely visitors and a few extremely lucky
observers have seen Red-tailed Laughingthrush using this method.
Tall mossy trees along here are a good place to spot Golden-throated
and Great Barbets with noisy Large Cuckooshrike and Grey Treepies
also using these perches at certain times of the year. In
the undergrowth skulkers like Chestnut-headed Tesia, Slaty-bellied
Tesia and Pygmy Wren Babbler can sometimes be found while
it is amazing how common Lesser Shortwing is in the wet season;
seeing one in the dry season requires a lot of luck! Eyebrowed
Wren Babbler is also sometimes seen in this area and very
ocassionally someone finds Spotted Elachura which is best
detected by its song.
This long stretch of road can provide some great birding when
the weather is right but if it is breezy or cloudy it is usually
better to find an alternative spot on the mountain but other
great birds that are sometimes seen along here include Black-throated
Tit, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Silver Pheasant, Crimson-breasted
Woodpecker, Mountain Hawk Eagle and in "winter"
migratory thrushes are sometimes seen including Eyebrowed
Thrush, White's Thrush and Grey-winged Blackbird.
San
Ju View Point: From this view point there are
excellent views into Myanmar, in fact I am not sure anyone
is exactly sure of where the border is and it is likely that
when standing at the view point one is only a few feet away
from straying over the border. As the name suggests, this
spot also overlooks Doi San Ju, the western side of Doi Lang.
The speciality here is Fire-tailed Sunbird; the flowering
buddliea here attracting large numbers of Mrs Gould's Sunbirds
and a few Fire-tailed Sunbirds. This is the only regular wintering
location for this species in Thailand but it is rare to see
a male anywhere near full breeding plumage, mostly birders
should be looking out for female-type sunbirds with red sides
to the tail, although eclipse males with red tails are also
regular in smaller numbers still. If the birds are still around
as the breeding season approaches birders may be lucky to
see one of the males beginning to obtain full breeding plumage.
The grassy vegetation here plays host to resident Hill Prinias
while Aberrant Bush Warbler skulks around in the cool season.
This open area is also a good site for Crested Finchbill and
if raptor watching is your thing this is perhaps the best
spot on the mountain with regular sightings of Mountain Hawk
Eagle, Eastern Buzzard, Crested Goshawk and, for the lucky
few, Himalayan Griffon. During passage migration (October)
there are frequent sightings of large flocks of passing raptors
including a strong passage of Amur Falcon along with the commoner
Grey-faced Buzzard, Oriental Honey-buzzard, Chinese Sparrowhawk
and Japanese Sparrowhawk.
This location can also be a good spot for observation migrating
passerines as they pass over the mountain ridge; birds such
as Buff-throated Warbler, Chestnut Bunting and Common Rosefinch
are regularly seen and there have been sightings of rarer
species such as Scarlet Finch, Tristram's Bunting and Black-headed
Greenfinch.
Bird
Watching Tours To Doi Lang: If you have at least
3 days for birding from Chiang Mai then Doi Lang is
superb, probably the best birding site in the north
and a must-visit site for longer bird watching tours
of Northern Thailand and, indeed, tours of the whole
country. Doi Lang is at its best in December to February
for migrant species but at all times of the year a large
number of excellent resident birds can be seen.
Contact me to arrange a birding trip and/or to discuss
the best bird watching options for you: nickupton@thaibirding.com
A short trail leads into some nice moist forest here where
flocks can include Chestnut-crowned Warbler, Yellow-cheeked
Tit, Hume's Treecreeper and Yellow-bellied Fantail. Sometimes
Rusty-naped Pitta can be heard calling from the gulley in
here but to see it you will either need a huge amount of luck
or a great deal of patience. If it is very hot in the sunshine
at the viewpoint many birds will retreat to this shady forest
spot.
In some years the photographic community set up stake outs
in this area where birds come to feed on meal worms. Usually
Silver-eared Laughingthrush and Blue Whistlingthrush will
show up quite quickly when the weather is cold but Golden
Bush Robin, Red-flanked Bluetail and Chestnut-headed Tesia
have all also frequented this spot.
Note: Since mid 2014 permission
to access this area has not always been given, sometimes birders
are allowed to pass through the checkpoint on the understanding
that they will not go any further than this viewpoint. The
lower numbers of visitors than in the past means that the
former stakeouts here are not usually active.
Doi Lang West (Doi San Ju)
Very little traffic uses this road but proceed with
some caution as there are some military vehicles up and down
on a daily basis. Beyond the military checkpoint the road
forms the Thai-Myanmar border and there is a fair amount of
farming activity on the Burmese side but the Thai military
do not allow access (currently) to this area although they
have in the past. Unexploded ordnance signs beyond the checkpoint
may also help explain why it is a restricted area.
The
Pine Ridge: As one drives up the road into
the forest from the Fang side of the mountain extensive areas
of pine forest along the ridge are encountered. Apart from
spectacular views either side there are some good birds to
look for along here including specialities of the region,
Mrs Hume's Pheasant and Giant Nuthatch.
The best chance of seeing Mrs Hume's Pheasant and Mountain
Bamboo Partridge is as one drives up the road through the
pine forest or walking slowly and quietly and listening out
for these birds as they scratch around in the undergrowth.
Both species are fairly common but easiest to see when the
undergrowth is dry and has died back or even burnt, so that
opportunities for them to hide are reduced.
Although the pine forest generally has a lower level of avian
biodiversity than other forest types, many of the species
birders will see here are different to other areas on the
mountain. Japanese Tit, Large Cuckooshrike, Long-tailed Minivet,
Rufescent Prinia and Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker are common
in this habitat and Giant Nuthatch is in fact quite abundant
where there are large pine trees; it is a bird one would expect
to see along here in the early morning.
In among the pine forest are areas of broadleaved woodland
and these can turn up some nice flocks of birds including
Grey-headed Parrotbill, Dark-backed Sibia, Rufous-backed Sibia,
Greater Yellownape, Stripe-breasted Woodpecker and even Himalayan
Cutia. Be careful not to make the mistake of getting yourself
a "tourist Cutia" i.e. a misidentified Rufous-backed
Sibia; they can look very similar at times and have more or
less identical foraging habits.
A number of migrant species seem to favour this forest too
with Slender-billed Oriole more frequently seen in pine than
other areas. Ultramarine Flycatcher is a regular here, Fire-capped
Tit is sometimes found in seeding trees while Grey-crowned
Warbler and Buff-throated Warblers can be quite common in
the undergrowth too, both probably best picked up on call.
In this forest you might also be able to locate Rusty-cheeked
Scimitar Babbler, noisy Grey Treepies, saturata race
of Black-winged Cuckooshrike as well as the confusingly similar
Indochinese Cuckooshrike.
There are plenty of Leaf Warblers jumping around in the pines
too, just to confuse people. Hume's Leaf Warbler seems to
favour this habitat, it can be picked out by its drab appearance
and dark bill. The race that winters here is mandelli
and if you are here in March it is likely that its strange
buzzing song will be heard.
Photography
Stakeouts: After passing through miles of pine
forest one eventually gets to a shady patch of more moist
forest which many birders stop at and as a consequence there
are a few lay-bys which have been created which make parking
easy. There is also a large, metal sign asking birders not
to disturb birds on the nest which makes finding this spot
easy.
One of the features of this area is that over the years photographers
have established a number of feeding stations, right next
to the road, and these can be really rewarding in the months
of December through to March. Species such as White-gorgetted
Flycatcher, Slaty-blue Flycatcher, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar
Babbler, Silver-eared Laughingthrush, Siberian Rubythroat,
Hill Prinia and White-bellied Redstart are regular here each
year. Other species turn up from time to time too, including
some species that can be really tough to connect with; on
ocassions Rusty-naped Pitta, Lesser Shortwing, White-tailed
Robin and even Spot-breasted Laughingthrush have been seen
and photographed.
The feeding stations apart, the birding can be really good
in this shady area with feeding flocks passing through regularly
containing many of the commoner birds such as Yunnan Fulvetta,
Golden Babbler, Blue-winged Minla, Dark-backed Sibia and Yellow-bellied
Fantail along with a variety of leaf warblers. Scarcer birds
often join these flocks too with Hume's Treecreeper, Rufous-backed
Sibia, Indochinese Cuckooshrike, Striated Yuhina and even
Himalayan Cutia to look out for. In fact a huge variety of
resident species are often seen here including White-browed
Laughingthrush, flocks of Grey-headed Parrotbills, Lesser
Yellownape and it must be the best place in the country to
get close to Spot-breasted Parrotbill; it is always worth
spending some time here.
In early March Hodgson's Frogmouth is usually nesting in this
area and the vigilant may be able to spot the nest, often
very close to the road! Listen out for the chipping sound
of small parties of one of the cutest birds in the country,
Black-throated Tit, which is a speciality of this mountain
in Thailand.
Although it can be really wet here in the rainy season it
is worth waiting for brighter spells because this can be a
good area for seeing breeding birds in full swing with cute
Black-throated Bushtits, Lesser Cuckoo and Himalayan Cutia
nesting while even Purple Cochoa has been seen here in June/July.
Army
Camp: Although the road actually continues
all the way through to Thatorn, currently the military stop
access beyond this point. Birders are free to park here and
go birding back down the road from here and it can turn up
some really good birds that are not so frequently seen elsewhere
on the mountain. The soldiers, although very easy-going, do
not like birders walking up the track towards the camp so
just stay on the road to avoid any confusing incidents with
the military.
The habitat here is mixed forest with a grassy understorey
in which frustrating birds such as Russet Bush Warbler, Pale-legged
Bush Warbler, White-bellied Redstart and Aberrant Bush Warbler
skulk. The first of these two are resident and can be heard
singing from about March to July but even then they are hard
to see in thick vegetation. The latter two are migrant visitors
and are equally hard to see but with patience they may show
themselves, particularly when they first arrive in November/December.
This is one of the few spots on the mountain that Silver-eared
Mesia is frequently seen and flocks which contain this species
often include Rufous-backed Sibia, Spectacled Barwing, Grey-headed
Parrotbill, Yunnan Fulvetta, Stripe-breasted Woodpecker, Chestnut-vented
Nuthatch and Greater Yellownape. This area always seems to
be a good one for finding Crested Finchbill which can sometimes
be very abundant but at other times quite scarce while Brown-breasted
Bulbul is sometimes seen here in the company of Red-whiskered
and Flavescent Bulbuls.
Open forest and tall grasses here can sometimes attract Crested
and Chestnut Buntings while in the treetops Indochinese Cuckooshrike,
Large Cuckooshrike and Large Woodshrike occur although they
are not common. While it is a scarce bird on Doi Lang, the
incredible Long-tailed Broadbill is sometimes seen here with
the best chance being from March to June for this species.
Spot-winged Grosbeak, Mrs Gould's Sunbird, Maroon Oriole and
Common Rosefinch are other birds to look out for here and
Thailand's first Himalayan Thrush was found in this area.
The habitat and location of this spot makes it a prime one
for finding something very unusual.
Facilities
Facilities upon Doi Lang are almost entirely absent. There
is, however, a basic campsite with a toilet block and an excellent
view most of the way up the mountain from the Thatorn (east)
side, but birders must take their own tents, cooking equipment
and food. Very low night time temperatures during the cool
season can make camping up here quite uncomfortable and during
the rainy season it would be a very damp experience to spend
the night up here. There is also a very basic toilet at the
border police checkpoint but that is it. On the Fang (west)
side of the mountain there is nothing at all and if you want
lunch on either side of the mountain it must be taken with
you.
The village of Thatorn is at the base of the mountain on
the east side of the site and here there are a number of guesthouses
where birders can stay; I usually stay at Thatorn
Garden Home where good food is available and the owners
are friendly and helpful, speaking reasonable English and
able to arrange transport. Others I know have recommended
Thatorn
Hill Resort as a good place to stay too. The village
also has a number of restaurants and convenience stores, including
a 7/11 where coffee and toasted sandwiches can be obtained
for an early breakfast; there are also cash machines here
and an early morning market which is a good place to buy some
fruit to add to your packed lunch. In the evenings there are
usually a few street food vendors selling a variety of simple
dishes and desserts; a man usually sells banana roti (pancakes)
from a stall at the south side of the bridge which are very
tasty and cheap!
The town of Fang is at the base of the west side of the mountain
and has a number of good guesthouses/hotels that make a comfortable
base. Tangerine
Ville Hotel is probably the largest in town and has
very comfortable rooms, a large car park and a restaurant,
although the food is acceptable rather than great. Although
breakfast does not officialy start until about 7am if you
ask the staff nicely they will provide a simple breakfast
earlier and even a packed lunch. The Sleeping
Tree Hotel is also very nice and while it does not
have a restaurant it is within walking distance of food outlets
and breakfast can be arranged very early. There are lots more
hotels
in Fang for a variety of budgets.
This town has a large supermarket where more or less anything
can be purchased and a hospital which I have had to use and
found the service and help there very good. Close to the entrance
to the supermarket car park there is a pet shop where mealworms
can sometimes be purchased (none for sale 2018-2019). There
are plenty of restaurants and shops in Fang as well as a number
of banks and cash machines; more or less anything you need
can be found in this small town.
Currently entry fees are not regularly charged on either side
of the mountain but sporadically; expect the fee to be 300
baht per person for foreigners and 30 baht per vehicle if
these fees are implemented.
Some Useful Books
Thrushes This lovely book covers all of the thrushes in the
world and is a useful reference for anyone hoping to
see some migratory thrush species in northern Thailand.
Beautiful plates by Ren Hathaway are accompanied by
insightful and extensive species accounts.
Birds
of Thailand This field guide has set new standards in identifying
birds in the wild in Thailand. With the most up-to-date
taxonomy of any publication this is the book you need
if you are birdwatching in Thailand. Forget all of the
older guides and buy this one.
Bird
Watching Trips:
Doi Lang is a must-visit location on birdwatching trips
to the north of Thailand. It is worth combining a visit
to this location with some time at nearby Doi Ang Kang
for short birding trips to the north and on longer tours
of the country.