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Doi Lang
(Updated 29/03/20)

Introduction
Doi Lang

Scenery at Doi Lang
(Photo by Nick Upton)

Doi Lang, in Chiang Mai province, is actually a collection of mountain ridges within the extensive Doi Pha Hom Pok National Park; the site also includes an area known locally as Doi San Ju. This location is one of the wildest areas of Thailand that is accessible by car, affording fantastic views across into Myanmar and providing birders with many miles of fabulous roadside birding in a variety of upland habitats with hardly any vehicular disturbance at all.

A narrow road forms a loop along the Thai-Myanmar border from the town of Fang to the village of Thatorn but currently the military does not allow through traffic so the East and West sides of Doi Lang must be visited seperately; the East side is accessed from Thatorn and the West side is accessed from Fang.

The area of habitat here is huge and being this far north it is a site that plays host to several species that cannot be found anywhere else in Thailand as well as being a very scenic location. With habitats that include pine forest, rice paddies, orchards and moist forest the number of potential species is very high and several days are essential to do the site justice. With good accommodation in nearby small towns and other birding locations nearby this is a great place to spend time at exploring the area and enjoying what is probably the best birding in Northern Thailand.

Although visiting the mountain is safe one should remember that the road forms the border for much of its length and should you wander off, accidently, into Myanmar the Thai military will be unable to come to your assistance should anything happen. There have, in the past, been signs along the road, on the East side of the mountain, warning of land mines but the signs have fallen down, so be mindful of this if thinking of going off the road. There is another area of the road (currently not accessible) where there was unexploded ordnance and it is possible that there are other areas where this could be an issue so it is best to stay on the road.

Birding Highlights
Hodgson's Frogmouth

Hodgson's Frogmouth
(Photo by Nick Upton)

There are so many highlights at Doi Lang; it really is a must-visit site for birding in the north of Thailand. This represents the best opportunity anywhere in the world ranges of Giant Nuthatch and Mrs Hume's Pheasant for birders to see these species.

A few resident species are known only from Doi Lang, or a couple of other sites, in Thailand. This site is the best chance for most birders in Thailand to see Crimson-breasted Woodpecker, Whiskered Yuhina, Spotted Wren Babbler, Himalayan Cutia, Black-eared Shrike-babbler and Black-throated Bushtit which is so cute someone should make a cuddly toy based on it.

Parrotbills are a sought-after group of birds and at Doi Lang there is a realistic chance of seeing Spot-breasted, Grey-headed and Pale-billed (Lesser Rufous-headed) Parrotbills. Other exciting resident species include Red-billed Scimitar Babbler, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler, White-browed Laughingthrush, Scarlet-faced Liocichla and Spectacled Barwing.

Every year a couple of nests of Hodgson's Frogmouth are found giving birders a unique opportunity to see this weird bird in the daylight. For those who like night birding it is probably a realistic target for calling in after dark. Other targets for night birders would include Mountain Scops Owl, Brown Wood Owl and Collared Scops Owl.

Himalayan Bluetail

Himalayan Bluetail
(Photo by Nick Upton)

Between November and March there are large numbers of migrants present on Doi Lang; large numbers of Leaf Warblers and Flycatchers are notable with scarce birds such as Chinese Leaf Warbler, Sapphire Flycatcher and Rufous-gorgetted Flycatcher being regular. Himalayan Bluetail is quite a common but stunning visitor and there have been sightings of Red-flanked Bluetail and Golden Bush Robin too. If you like skulking birds Aberrant Bush Warbler, White-bellied Redstart and Siberian Rubythroat will be highlights.

This is the only regular site in Thailand for Fire-tailed Sunbird, and this can be a real highlight if you can find a male somewhere near breeding plumage feeding on buddleia.

Small seed-eating migrants are very scarce in Thailand but Doi Lang gives birders a good chance of finding some great birds such as Scarlet Finch, Black-headed Greenfinch, Little Bunting, Crested Bunting and Chestnut Bunting - unfortunately, the latter three are getting increasingly rare.

Some exciting raptors can be found here too with migrating Amur Falcons and resident Mountain Hawk Eagles. This is a really good site to find wintering Grey-faced Buzzard, Eastern Buzzard and a lucky few may see Himalayan Griffon Vulture - quite a sight if you do get lucky!

There really are so many highlights here that it is impossible to see them all in one visit. This is a site that will make you go back again and again; one of the most likely sites for finding an addition to the Thai list in the whole country.

A checklist of the birds for this location can be found here - Doi Lang

Bird Watching Trips:
If you need help organizing a bird watching trip to Thailand, take a look at the suggested itineraries for ideas on creating a tailor-made trip and contact me for advice: Thailand bird tours.
Travel Information

Use the interactive map below to plan your route to Doi Lang. The blue line shows the route from Chiang Mai (Blue Pin) to Doi Lang West/Doi San Ju (Green Pin) and to Doi Lang East (Red Pin).

There are no restrictions on access to the West side of Doi Lang and the road is in good condition so any vehicle can make it up the mountain. However, driving up the East side requires a sturdy vehicle with good ground clearance as the quality of the road is extremely bad and border police will not allow saloon cars or minivans to enter. There is also a gate on the East side of the mountain with time restrictions; entry before 7am is not allowed and visitors must exit by 5pm.

By Car/Motorcycle
It is essential to have your own transport to visit both sides of Doi Lang. Hiring a car in Chiang Mai is the best thing to do but for the adventurous budget traveller it is within range to hire a motorcycle, but drive carefully there are dangerous sections of the road! From Chiang Mai head north on route 107 until reaching the town of Fang. Take care on the stretch of road between Chiang Dao and Fang is quite narrow for a main road, has lots of sharp corners and has a lot of extremely slow trucks using it which are very difficult to overtake safely. I would strongly advise not driving on this road in the dark and make sure you allow lots of time for this journey; being in a hurry could result in a bad accident. On reaching Fang take the by-pass and after a few kilometres there is a small cross roads with some traffic lights and a signpost for Fang Hot Springs. For Doi Lang West/Doi San Ju turn left here and continue through a number of small villages for quite some distance until you get to a T-junction which is tree-lined; turn right here and continue until you enter the forest and ascend the mountain. For Doi Lang East one must continue along the Fang by-pass and continue along route 107 until the village of Thatorn. A few hundred metres before the river there is a left hand turning next to a bank, take this road and continue until reaching a checkpoint. Here you sign in and continue up the mountain, birding along the way but remember, the road is in extremely poor condition.

By Bus
It is not possible to reach the birding sites of Doi Lang by public transport. However, there are plenty of buses from Chiang Mai's Chang Pueak bus station that go to Thatorn via Fang, terminating in the village of Thatorn. From Thatorn or Fang it is possible to charter a songtaew to take you up either side of the mountain but unless you can speak Thai you will have to try and do this through the hotel you stay in.

By Taxi
Doi Lang is rather a long way from Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai for a taxi to be a sensible option but it is possible to arrange one through a hotel or agent before you arrive. It is not impossible to charter a songtaew from either of these two provincial capitals to use as a taxi but it would be complicated and car hire would be a far better option and probably cheaper.

By Tuk Tuk or Motorcycle Taxi
Although both these styles of transport are abundant in Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai it is far too far to Doi Lang for these to be a viable means of accessing the mountain. Dangerous and inefficient, not to be advised.

By Train

Chiang Mai city can be reached by train from Bangkok, many people like to make an overnight journey, the timetable can be seen here: Train Travel from Bangkok to Chiang Mai. From here you can either use the instructions above to get to Doi Lang by public transport or private vehicle.

By Plane
Both Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai airports are about equidistant from Doi Lang. From either airport it is possible to pick up a hire vehicle which is the most convenient way to visit Doi Lang. It is also possible to arrange a taxi to your accommodation in either Fang or Thatorn from either airport, although you would need to arrange transport onto the mountain from there on.

Finding Birds

While there is good birding throughout the whole site there are a number of areas that have been repeatedly productive to birders and these are outlined here. However, the size of the habitat is so large that lots of areas never get explored and it is quite likely that there are surprises to be found in areas of the mountain that are less frequently birded, indeed, species continue to be added to the Thai list from this site even from the spots that are frequently birded.

Doi Lang Map Hilltribe Rice Fields Concrete Bridge Border Police Checkpoint Forest Ridge San Ju Viewpoint Army Camp Photography Stakeouts Pine Ridge

Doi Lang East

The road up this side is in very poor condition so drive carefully or hire a local driver. For much of its length this road actually forms the border between Thailand and Myanmar so do not wander off into Myanmar where Thai authorities will not be able to help you should you get into trouble. In the recent past there have been signs warning of land mines on both sides of the road; these signs have fallen down and I do not know if the mines have been cleared so it is best to stay on the road where you will be safe. Encountering any local people along this road should be done with a smile and caution as some birders have come across armed drug smugglers coming over the border but you are more likely to meet hilltribe farmers tending cattle.

Concrete Bridge: As one comes down some steep slopes the forest opens up at a large concrete bridge over a small valley; this is a good spot to get a view over the forest canopy and spot birds sitting out on exposed perches. Species such as Ashy Drongo, Mountain Imperial Pigeon, Greater Racket-tailed Drongo and Oriental Turtle Dove are frequent here but quite a lot more is possible.

Orange-belied Leafbird
Orange-bellied Leafbird

 

Little Pied Flycatcher
Little Pied Flycatcher

Mountain Imperial Pigeon
Mountain Imperial Pigeon

 

Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker
Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker

(Photo by Nick Upton)

A couple of flowering trees in the area are a magnet to birds if they are in bloom attracting Maroon Oriole, Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, Black Bulbul, Blue-throated Barbet, Stripe-breasted Woodpecker and Slender-billed Oriole and probably a lot more if you spend time waiting to see what turns up. If the trees are not in flower, the birds are still about but it will take more effort to see them.

Groups of small birds often pass through here including fast-moving flocks of Striated Yuhina, Speckled Piculet, White-bellied Erpornis, Yellow-browed Warbler and Fire-breasted Flowerpecker while larger species are represented by the very difficult-to-see White-necked Laughingthrush, which is usually extremely shy but vocal. A few species of woodpecker seem to favour this spot including both Greater and Lesser Yellownapes, Bay Woodpecker and the mysterious Pale-headed Woodpecker which I have seen more than once alongside the very similar Bamboo Woodpecker. Long-tailed Broadbills sometimes come through here in large flocks and it amazing to see large numbers of this spectacular bird.

A good variety of birds occur here and being a little lower down the mountain than many of the regular spots, many species not seen elsewhere can be located here with luck including Red-billed Scimitar Babbler, Collared Babbler and even Lesser Rufous-headed Parrotbill but you will need to invest some time for many of these secretive birds.

Hilltribe Rice Fields: This area is seasonally farmed by a small hilltribe community, irrigated by a small stream and often containing domesticated water buffalo. Stopping at the small bridge over the stream gives a good view across most of the area and provides a nice photo opportunity as well as allowing birders to scan for a variety of species.

 

Little Bunting
Little Bunting

 

Olive-backed Pipit
Olive-backed Pipit

Pied Bushchat
Pied Bushchat (female)

 

Siberian Rubythroat
Siberian Rubythroat

(Photo by Nick Upton)

In the early morning, particularly in the cool season (November to February), this is a good place to spot birds perched out in the open trying to catch the first of the morning sunshine. Large numbers of Oriental Turtle Dove can often be seen on the treetops here and open country birds that can be found include Long-tailed Shrike, Black-collared Starling, Pied Bushchat, White-throated Kingfisher and Chinese Pond Heron. In the cool season these are also joined by one or two Grey-backed Shrikes, Olive-backed Pipit, a few Siberian Rubythroats in the undergrowth and a Grey-faced Buzzard or two.

Although they are rare these days, this is one of the better places to look for buntings. In the field edges and grassy scrub that surround these rice fields migrant Little Buntings are regular in small numbers as are Chestnut Buntings which can sometimes be found in flocks of double figures but more likely in small groups. Crested Bunting favours tall grasses in this general area and it is not impossible that other species could be found, while Common Rosefinch can sometimes be found in company of buntings here.

As the day warms up this can be a good location for raptor watching. Grey-faced Buzzard, Oriental Honey-buzzard and Eastern Buzzard are frequent during the cool season while Eurasian Sparrowhawk can put in an appearance and Amur Falcon may be seen in October/November. Resident raptors can include Mountain Hawk Eagle, Rufous-bellied Eagle, Changeable Hawk Eagle, Black Eagle and Crested Goshawk.

Border Police Checkpoint: This area has long been a favourite stop for birders and it is a convenient place to park your vehicle and explore further along the road on foot. For some years now the border police here have provided fruit and rice for birds to feed on and it has become a very reliable spot for Scarlet-faced Liocichla which is one of the most stunning birds you will see in northern Thailand.

 

Whiskered Yuhina
Whiskered Yuhina

 

Scarlet-faced Liocichla
Scarlet-faced Liocichla

Chestnut Thrush
Chestnut Thrush

 

Rufous-gorgetted Flycatcher
Rufous-gorgetted Flycatcher

(Photo by Nick Upton)

This feeding spot continually attracts several gangs of Dark-backed Sibias to feed and when they become active Silver-eared Laughingthrush and Spectacled Barwing are usually not far behind; both beautiful birds when seen at such close range. Other resident species that frequently come to feed at this spot include Blue Whistlingthrush and Large Niltava. In the dry season a number of scarce migrants are also attracted to this spot; Himalayan Bluetail and Rufous-gorgetted Flycatcher are pretty much annual and migrant thrushes have included Eyebrowed Thrush, Grey-winged Blackbird and Chestnut Thrush over the last few years. This wonderful collection of species is a good reason to spend time here, particularly as the views that are obtained are usually excellent and close-up - ideal for photographers.

Walking up and down the road from this spot is also usually rewarding with flocks of small birds being frequent and usually containing Davison's Leaf Warbler, Whiskered Yuhina, Rufous-winged Fulvetta and Chestnut-crowned Warbler. Look out for the small trees with tiny orange fruits along here which are favoured by many species including Mountain Bulbul, Striated Bulbul and Crested Finchbill.

Mossy trees in this area create a wonderful habitat and many of them host epiphytic orchids which may take visitor's attention away from the birds, but not for long given that Black-eared Shrike-babbler, Chestnut-headed Tesia, Spotted Wren Babbler and Crimson-breasted Woodpecker are all in the area but take a lot more effort to find than many other species.

Forest Ridge: The road extends along from the checkpoint, several kilometres through moist forest all the way to San Ju viewpoint. Making extended walks along the road at various points usually provides good birding in the morning and late afternoons with most of the mountain's high altitude speciality species possible.

Himalayan Bluetail
Himalayan Bluetail

 

Chestnut-headed Tesia
Chestnut-headed Tesia

Black-throated Tit
Black-throated Tit

 

Davison's Leaf Warbler
Davison's Leaf Warbler

(Photo by Nick Upton)

Flocks of smaller birds frequently forage along here and frequently include Yunnan Fulvetta, Golden Babbler, Rufous-winged Fulvetta, Chestnut-crowned Warbler, Grey-throated Babbler, Yellow-cheeked Tit and in the "winter" migrant warblers such as Hume's, Davison's, Pallas's and Buff-barred Leaf Warblers. These flocks sometimes hold the beautiful Black-eared Shrike Babbler, Yellow-browed Tit or even Himalayan Cutia too.

Flowering/fruiting trees and bushes often attract White-headed Bulbul, Crested Finchbill and Whiskered Yuhina along here as well as Orange-bellied Leafbird which can be incredibly abundant in November/December; listen out for it, this species is an amazing mimic. Bushes with small orange fruits are common along this piece of road and really attract a wide range of species and if you find one that has birds visiting it then sitting and waiting is a good policy with Ashy, Mountain and Striated Bulbul likely visitors and a few extremely lucky observers have seen Red-tailed Laughingthrush using this method.

Tall mossy trees along here are a good place to spot Golden-throated and Great Barbets with noisy Large Cuckooshrike and Grey Treepies also using these perches at certain times of the year. In the undergrowth skulkers like Chestnut-headed Tesia, Slaty-bellied Tesia and Pygmy Wren Babbler can sometimes be found while it is amazing how common Lesser Shortwing is in the wet season; seeing one in the dry season requires a lot of luck! Eyebrowed Wren Babbler is also sometimes seen in this area and very ocassionally someone finds Spotted Elachura which is best detected by its song.

This long stretch of road can provide some great birding when the weather is right but if it is breezy or cloudy it is usually better to find an alternative spot on the mountain but other great birds that are sometimes seen along here include Black-throated Tit, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Silver Pheasant, Crimson-breasted Woodpecker, Mountain Hawk Eagle and in "winter" migratory thrushes are sometimes seen including Eyebrowed Thrush, White's Thrush and Grey-winged Blackbird.

San Ju View Point: From this view point there are excellent views into Myanmar, in fact I am not sure anyone is exactly sure of where the border is and it is likely that when standing at the view point one is only a few feet away from straying over the border. As the name suggests, this spot also overlooks Doi San Ju, the western side of Doi Lang.

Golden Bush Robin
Golden Bush Robin

 

Aberrant Bush Warbler
Aberrant Bush Warbler

Himalayan Griffon
Himalayan Griffon

 

San Ju View Point
San Ju View Point

(Photo by Nick Upton)

The speciality here is Fire-tailed Sunbird; the flowering buddliea here attracting large numbers of Mrs Gould's Sunbirds and a few Fire-tailed Sunbirds. This is the only regular wintering location for this species in Thailand but it is rare to see a male anywhere near full breeding plumage, mostly birders should be looking out for female-type sunbirds with red sides to the tail, although eclipse males with red tails are also regular in smaller numbers still. If the birds are still around as the breeding season approaches birders may be lucky to see one of the males beginning to obtain full breeding plumage. The grassy vegetation here plays host to resident Hill Prinias while Aberrant Bush Warbler skulks around in the cool season.

This open area is also a good site for Crested Finchbill and if raptor watching is your thing this is perhaps the best spot on the mountain with regular sightings of Mountain Hawk Eagle, Eastern Buzzard, Crested Goshawk and, for the lucky few, Himalayan Griffon. During passage migration (October) there are frequent sightings of large flocks of passing raptors including a strong passage of Amur Falcon along with the commoner Grey-faced Buzzard, Oriental Honey-buzzard, Chinese Sparrowhawk and Japanese Sparrowhawk.

This location can also be a good spot for observation migrating passerines as they pass over the mountain ridge; birds such as Buff-throated Warbler, Chestnut Bunting and Common Rosefinch are regularly seen and there have been sightings of rarer species such as Scarlet Finch, Tristram's Bunting and Black-headed Greenfinch.

Mrs Goulds SunbirdBird Watching Tours To Doi Lang: If you have at least 3 days for birding from Chiang Mai then Doi Lang is superb, probably the best birding site in the north and a must-visit site for longer bird watching tours of Northern Thailand and, indeed, tours of the whole country. Doi Lang is at its best in December to February for migrant species but at all times of the year a large number of excellent resident birds can be seen.

Contact me to arrange a birding trip and/or to discuss the best bird watching options for you: nickupton@thaibirding.com

A short trail leads into some nice moist forest here where flocks can include Chestnut-crowned Warbler, Yellow-cheeked Tit, Hume's Treecreeper and Yellow-bellied Fantail. Sometimes Rusty-naped Pitta can be heard calling from the gulley in here but to see it you will either need a huge amount of luck or a great deal of patience. If it is very hot in the sunshine at the viewpoint many birds will retreat to this shady forest spot.

In some years the photographic community set up stake outs in this area where birds come to feed on meal worms. Usually Silver-eared Laughingthrush and Blue Whistlingthrush will show up quite quickly when the weather is cold but Golden Bush Robin, Red-flanked Bluetail and Chestnut-headed Tesia have all also frequented this spot.

Note: Since mid 2014 permission to access this area has not always been given, sometimes birders are allowed to pass through the checkpoint on the understanding that they will not go any further than this viewpoint. The lower numbers of visitors than in the past means that the former stakeouts here are not usually active.

Doi Lang West (Doi San Ju)

Very little traffic uses this road but proceed with some caution as there are some military vehicles up and down on a daily basis. Beyond the military checkpoint the road forms the Thai-Myanmar border and there is a fair amount of farming activity on the Burmese side but the Thai military do not allow access (currently) to this area although they have in the past. Unexploded ordnance signs beyond the checkpoint may also help explain why it is a restricted area.

The Pine Ridge: As one drives up the road into the forest from the Fang side of the mountain extensive areas of pine forest along the ridge are encountered. Apart from spectacular views either side there are some good birds to look for along here including specialities of the region, Mrs Hume's Pheasant and Giant Nuthatch.

Ultramarine Flycatcher
Ultramarine Flycatcher

 

Mrs Hume's Pheasant
Mrs Hume's Pheasant

Mountain Bamboo Partridge
Mountain Bamboo Partridge

 

Long-tailed Minivet
Long-tailed Minivet

(Photo by Nick Upton)

The best chance of seeing Mrs Hume's Pheasant and Mountain Bamboo Partridge is as one drives up the road through the pine forest or walking slowly and quietly and listening out for these birds as they scratch around in the undergrowth. Both species are fairly common but easiest to see when the undergrowth is dry and has died back or even burnt, so that opportunities for them to hide are reduced.

Although the pine forest generally has a lower level of avian biodiversity than other forest types, many of the species birders will see here are different to other areas on the mountain. Japanese Tit, Large Cuckooshrike, Long-tailed Minivet, Rufescent Prinia and Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker are common in this habitat and Giant Nuthatch is in fact quite abundant where there are large pine trees; it is a bird one would expect to see along here in the early morning.

In among the pine forest are areas of broadleaved woodland and these can turn up some nice flocks of birds including Grey-headed Parrotbill, Dark-backed Sibia, Rufous-backed Sibia, Greater Yellownape, Stripe-breasted Woodpecker and even Himalayan Cutia. Be careful not to make the mistake of getting yourself a "tourist Cutia" i.e. a misidentified Rufous-backed Sibia; they can look very similar at times and have more or less identical foraging habits.

A number of migrant species seem to favour this forest too with Slender-billed Oriole more frequently seen in pine than other areas. Ultramarine Flycatcher is a regular here, Fire-capped Tit is sometimes found in seeding trees while Grey-crowned Warbler and Buff-throated Warblers can be quite common in the undergrowth too, both probably best picked up on call. In this forest you might also be able to locate Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler, noisy Grey Treepies, saturata race of Black-winged Cuckooshrike as well as the confusingly similar Indochinese Cuckooshrike.

There are plenty of Leaf Warblers jumping around in the pines too, just to confuse people. Hume's Leaf Warbler seems to favour this habitat, it can be picked out by its drab appearance and dark bill. The race that winters here is mandelli and if you are here in March it is likely that its strange buzzing song will be heard.

Photography Stakeouts: After passing through miles of pine forest one eventually gets to a shady patch of more moist forest which many birders stop at and as a consequence there are a few lay-bys which have been created which make parking easy. There is also a large, metal sign asking birders not to disturb birds on the nest which makes finding this spot easy.

Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler
Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler

 

White-gorgetted Flycatcher
White-gorgetted Flycatcher

Lesser Shortwing
Lesser Shortwing

 

Spot-breasted Parrotbill
Spot-breasted Parrotbill

(Photo by Nick Upton)

One of the features of this area is that over the years photographers have established a number of feeding stations, right next to the road, and these can be really rewarding in the months of December through to March. Species such as White-gorgetted Flycatcher, Slaty-blue Flycatcher, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler, Silver-eared Laughingthrush, Siberian Rubythroat, Hill Prinia and White-bellied Redstart are regular here each year. Other species turn up from time to time too, including some species that can be really tough to connect with; on ocassions Rusty-naped Pitta, Lesser Shortwing, White-tailed Robin and even Spot-breasted Laughingthrush have been seen and photographed.

The feeding stations apart, the birding can be really good in this shady area with feeding flocks passing through regularly containing many of the commoner birds such as Yunnan Fulvetta, Golden Babbler, Blue-winged Minla, Dark-backed Sibia and Yellow-bellied Fantail along with a variety of leaf warblers. Scarcer birds often join these flocks too with Hume's Treecreeper, Rufous-backed Sibia, Indochinese Cuckooshrike, Striated Yuhina and even Himalayan Cutia to look out for. In fact a huge variety of resident species are often seen here including White-browed Laughingthrush, flocks of Grey-headed Parrotbills, Lesser Yellownape and it must be the best place in the country to get close to Spot-breasted Parrotbill; it is always worth spending some time here.

In early March Hodgson's Frogmouth is usually nesting in this area and the vigilant may be able to spot the nest, often very close to the road! Listen out for the chipping sound of small parties of one of the cutest birds in the country, Black-throated Tit, which is a speciality of this mountain in Thailand.

Although it can be really wet here in the rainy season it is worth waiting for brighter spells because this can be a good area for seeing breeding birds in full swing with cute Black-throated Bushtits, Lesser Cuckoo and Himalayan Cutia nesting while even Purple Cochoa has been seen here in June/July.

Army Camp: Although the road actually continues all the way through to Thatorn, currently the military stop access beyond this point. Birders are free to park here and go birding back down the road from here and it can turn up some really good birds that are not so frequently seen elsewhere on the mountain. The soldiers, although very easy-going, do not like birders walking up the track towards the camp so just stay on the road to avoid any confusing incidents with the military.

Crested Finchbill
Crested Finchbill

 

Chinese Leaf Warbler
Chinese Leaf Warbler

Chestnut-vented Nuthatch
Chestnut-vented Nuthatch

 

Slender-billed Oriole
Slender-billed Oriole

(Photo by Nick Upton)

The habitat here is mixed forest with a grassy understorey in which frustrating birds such as Russet Bush Warbler, Pale-legged Bush Warbler, White-bellied Redstart and Aberrant Bush Warbler skulk. The first of these two are resident and can be heard singing from about March to July but even then they are hard to see in thick vegetation. The latter two are migrant visitors and are equally hard to see but with patience they may show themselves, particularly when they first arrive in November/December.

This is one of the few spots on the mountain that Silver-eared Mesia is frequently seen and flocks which contain this species often include Rufous-backed Sibia, Spectacled Barwing, Grey-headed Parrotbill, Yunnan Fulvetta, Stripe-breasted Woodpecker, Chestnut-vented Nuthatch and Greater Yellownape. This area always seems to be a good one for finding Crested Finchbill which can sometimes be very abundant but at other times quite scarce while Brown-breasted Bulbul is sometimes seen here in the company of Red-whiskered and Flavescent Bulbuls.

Open forest and tall grasses here can sometimes attract Crested and Chestnut Buntings while in the treetops Indochinese Cuckooshrike, Large Cuckooshrike and Large Woodshrike occur although they are not common. While it is a scarce bird on Doi Lang, the incredible Long-tailed Broadbill is sometimes seen here with the best chance being from March to June for this species. Spot-winged Grosbeak, Mrs Gould's Sunbird, Maroon Oriole and Common Rosefinch are other birds to look out for here and Thailand's first Himalayan Thrush was found in this area. The habitat and location of this spot makes it a prime one for finding something very unusual.

Facilities
Doi Lang Hotels

Facilities upon Doi Lang are almost entirely absent. There is, however, a basic campsite with a toilet block and an excellent view most of the way up the mountain from the Thatorn (east) side, but birders must take their own tents, cooking equipment and food. Very low night time temperatures during the cool season can make camping up here quite uncomfortable and during the rainy season it would be a very damp experience to spend the night up here. There is also a very basic toilet at the border police checkpoint but that is it. On the Fang (west) side of the mountain there is nothing at all and if you want lunch on either side of the mountain it must be taken with you.

Doi Lang Camping Ground

Doi Lang Camping Ground
(Photo by Nick Upton)

The village of Thatorn is at the base of the mountain on the east side of the site and here there are a number of guesthouses where birders can stay; I usually stay at Thatorn Garden Home where good food is available and the owners are friendly and helpful, speaking reasonable English and able to arrange transport. Others I know have recommended Thatorn Hill Resort as a good place to stay too. The village also has a number of restaurants and convenience stores, including a 7/11 where coffee and toasted sandwiches can be obtained for an early breakfast; there are also cash machines here and an early morning market which is a good place to buy some fruit to add to your packed lunch. In the evenings there are usually a few street food vendors selling a variety of simple dishes and desserts; a man usually sells banana roti (pancakes) from a stall at the south side of the bridge which are very tasty and cheap!

The town of Fang is at the base of the west side of the mountain and has a number of good guesthouses/hotels that make a comfortable base. Tangerine Ville Hotel is probably the largest in town and has very comfortable rooms, a large car park and a restaurant, although the food is acceptable rather than great. Although breakfast does not officialy start until about 7am if you ask the staff nicely they will provide a simple breakfast earlier and even a packed lunch. The Sleeping Tree Hotel is also very nice and while it does not have a restaurant it is within walking distance of food outlets and breakfast can be arranged very early. There are lots more hotels in Fang for a variety of budgets.

This town has a large supermarket where more or less anything can be purchased and a hospital which I have had to use and found the service and help there very good. Close to the entrance to the supermarket car park there is a pet shop where mealworms can sometimes be purchased (none for sale 2018-2019). There are plenty of restaurants and shops in Fang as well as a number of banks and cash machines; more or less anything you need can be found in this small town.

Currently entry fees are not regularly charged on either side of the mountain but sporadically; expect the fee to be 300 baht per person for foreigners and 30 baht per vehicle if these fees are implemented.

Some Useful Books

Thrushes
This lovely book covers all of the thrushes in the world and is a useful reference for anyone hoping to see some migratory thrush species in northern Thailand. Beautiful plates by Ren Hathaway are accompanied by insightful and extensive species accounts.

Birds of Thailand Birds of Thailand
This field guide has set new standards in identifying birds in the wild in Thailand. With the most up-to-date taxonomy of any publication this is the book you need if you are birdwatching in Thailand. Forget all of the older guides and buy this one.

Other Related Pages

Doi Lang Bird Checklist

Thailand Birdwatching Tours

Other Northern Thailand Birding Locations

Video Clips

Click on the images to start the videos.


Spot-breasted Parrotbill

Long-tailed Shrike

Mrs Hume's Pheasants Fighting
Trip Reports

Northern Thailand, 29th February-6th March 2020 - by Nick Upton

Thailand Leaf Warbler Tour, 3rd-17th December 2016 - by Nick Upton

North & Central Thailand Tour, 3rd-26th December 2014 - by Nick Upton

Doi Lang & Thatorn, 28th November-2nd December 2013 - by Nick Upton

Bird Photography Tour of Thailand , 7-20th March 2013 - by Nick Upton

3 Days Doi Ang Kang & Doi Lang, 26-29th December 2009 - by Nick Upton

Rainy Season Birding Tour of Thailand, 1st-14th July 2009 - by Nick Upton

Black-breasted Thrush Bird Watching Trips:
Doi Lang is a must-visit location on birdwatching trips to the north of Thailand. It is worth combining a visit to this location with some time at nearby Doi Ang Kang for short birding trips to the north and on longer tours of the country.

Look at some itinerary ideas, Thailand bird tours, or contact me for information: nickupton@thaibirding.com.
Related Blog Entries
Photo Galleries

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Doi Lang

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Sunset
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Pine Forest
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Rice Fields Doi Lang East
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Buffalo Camp
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The Concrete Bridge
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Cloudy Day
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Buffalo herd

Birds at Doi Lang

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Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler
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Silver-eared Laughingthrush
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Eurasian Hobby
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Little Pied Flycatcher
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Selected eBird Lists
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