Ko Phi Phi (pronounced Ko Pee Pee)
is famous for its spectacular limestone cliff scenery
and white sandy beaches, both of which will be remembered
for a long time after any visit here. It is also well-documented
that the movie "The Beach", starring Leonardo
Di Caprio was partly filmed on Ko Phi Phi. The island
also has a degree of infamy now, due to the devastation
it suffered from the tsunami of 26th December 2004. However,
it seems that things are pretty much back to normal here
and despite the fact that large numbers of tourists come
here it is still a very beautiful place indeed. There
are some really luxurious places to stay here which can
make Ko Phi Phi an excellent place to relax and recover
from forest bird watching which can be quite tiring at
times.Before
the tsunami, development had made some parts of Ko Phi
Phi Don quite grubby. One can only hope that redevelopment
might have taken place in a manner which better blends
into the beautiful surroundings.
Birding Highlights
These
islands are not known for their birds, but there are
certainly species worth making the trip for. Ko Phi
Phi is the only reliable place to see Frigatebirds in
Thailand and they can provide a spectacle that won't
be forgotten quickly. Other seabirds reguarly seen here
are Black-naped Tern, White-bellied Sea Eagle and Bridled
Tern and it would be worth keeping an eye out for Sheawaters,
Petrels and Tropicbirds which have occasionally been
reported.
The
islands themselves hold some birds of interest with
Pied Imperial Pigeon being one of the most attractive,
but Black-nest Swiftlet is here too, which can be tricky
to confidently identify. Nicobar Pigeon should be present
on these islands but I have never heard of a report
so perhaps they have been wiped out.
Bird
Watching Trips:
If you need help organizing a bird watching trip to Thailand,
take a look at the suggested itineraries for ideas on
creating a tailor-made trip and contact me for advice:
Thailand
bird tours.
Travel Information
Getting
to Ko Phi Phi is a simple affair due to the thriving
tourist industry there. There are many travel agents
that sell tickets for the boats that go a couple of
times a day from Krabi with prices the same whichever
company you choose; around 400baht return. For those
that have money and like to travel in style speedboats
can be chartered, again via travel agents, for something
like 8000 baht.
To
get to Krabi it depends where you are coming from on
which mode of transport you will use. If coming from
Bangkok by bus I would recommend taking one to Surat
Thani from the Southern bus terminal and then taking
an air conditioned mini bus to Krabi. Avoid a bus going
to Krabi via the West coast and Phuket as the terrain
is steep and the roads small, making for a lengthy journey.
There are also regular buses from Hat Yai if arriving
from Malaysia.
It
is possible to travel from Bangkok to Surat Thani by
train and then again taking a mini bus.
The
most convenient, but most expensive, method of arrival
is by plane. Krabi has a small airport about 10 kilometres
from the town, and there are daily flights from Bangkok
for about 3000 baht return.
It
is also possible to arrive here from Phuket and similarly
there are numerous travel agencies prepared to arrange this
for similar prices to those from Krabi. The same conditions
to bus travel to and from Krabi apply to Phuket (avoid buses
that go along the western coast; this will include virtually
all buses direct to and from Bangkok, instead go via Surat
Thani). Phuket airport is an international airport so flights
to and from many countries can arranged.
Most
people do not come to Ko Phi Phi for birdwatching, but
the islands have the potential for a good number of
species as there is still a lot of intact and fairly
undisturbed forest here. However, most birders are here
to see Frigatebirds, and these are easy to find near
the two sea stacks beyond Ko Phi Phi Ley: Ko Pida Nork
and Ko Pida Nai. Frigatebirds and the other seabirds
that can beseen in this region are best observed by
hiring a long-tailed boat and driver for 3-4 hours.
Black-nest
Swiftlet exists here and seems to outnumber Germain's
Swiftlet, if not displace it altogether. I saw plenty
of Black-nests in the small bay protected by Ko Samah
on Ko Phi Phi Ley. Look out for breeding Blue Rock Thrush
too.
Viewpoint trails on Phi Phi
Don : As far
as I know no birders have walked along these trails
to see what is present here. Presumably there should
be a reasonable number of birds as the forest is quite
intact and there is the possibility of finding something
interesting, maybe Nicobar Pigeon? Given the number
of migratory species that occur on other offshore islands
in the region the potential for forest species along
these trails is high.
Ko
Samah : This tiny
bay contained a number of birds when I was there at
around 5 pm after all the other tourists had gone home.
Black-nest Swiftlet was very obvious here and a few
Blue Rock Thrushes were flitting from rock to rock.
Collared Kingfisher was also present and a number of
Pied Imperial Pigeons were easily seen coming in to
roost on Ko Samah itself.
Apart
from anything else this is a very pretty little spot,
all the more so when one does not have to share it with
lots of others, presumably it gets quite busy earlier
in the day.
Ko
Pida (Nork & Nai) :
This area is an absolute must for bird watchers and
is a well-documented hotspot for Frigatebirds. Lesser
Frigatebird is seen by nearly all who take the trip
in the winter months, but Christmas Island Frigatebird
is also often encountered. Some people claim Great Frigatebird
here too, but this can be extremely difficult to seperate
from Christmas Island with confidence; make sure you
don't jump to conclusions! I was taken here by a boatman
who was very familiar with the habits of these birds
and found a flock of well over 1000 birds way to the
West of these islands shortly before dusk. This was
an extremely memorable trip, read an account of it here:
Ko
Phi Phi trip Report.
Find
a boatman at Ton Sai pier by asking them if they know
Nok Jon Sa-Lat (this is Thai for Frigatebird) or click
to see this in Thai script to print and show the boatmen:
Frigatebird
Thai Script. I was charged only 600 baht
for this trip and the boatman was not concerned about
how long we stayed out for.
Facilities
As a well-visited tourist destination Ko Phi Phi has no
end of facilities from cheap backpackers' hostels to swanky
beachfront chalets. A wide range of food is available to cater
to tourists' needs and internet connections are available
at most accommodations.
This
is an ideal place to relax and perhaps recover from
the rigours of hot and sweaty jungle birding; I enjoy
a trip here after slogging around the leech infested
Khao Sok National Park before moving on to Khao Nor
Chu Chi. It
would be pointless for me to try and recommend anywhere
to stay or eat as just about everything was destroyed
by the tsunami of 26th December 2004, but I'm sure the
whole place will be operational and receiving visitors
as usual by now, but prices for accomodation are higher
here than other parts of Thailand. Before the tsunami
there were some very luxurious resorts here and I'm
sure they have been reconstructed by now, so why not
treat yourself to one of these? Ko
Phi Phi Hotel Reservations.
In
addition there are numerous places that operate diving and
snorkelling tours and I understand that the quality of the
underwater life here is excellent.
Plenty
of places here trade in second hand books in case you've run
out of reading material, unfortunately the prices favour the
seller rather than the buyer.
This is
a National Park so one is supposed to pay the 400
baht entrance fee; sometimes this is enforced,
sometimes not but be prepared to pay it.
Some Useful Books
Kingfishers,
Bee-eaters & Rollers This book details all of the kingfishers, bee-eaters
and rollers of the world in a series of well-illustrated
plates. With a wealth of kingfisher species in southern
Thailand this is a really nice work of reference to
have.
Birds
of Thailand This field guide has set new standards in identifying
birds in the wild in Thailand. With the most up-to-date
taxonomy of any publication this is the book you need
if you are birdwatching in Thailand. Forget all of the
older guides and buy this one.