Freshwater marsh &
mountains
(Photo by Nick
Upton)
Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park, in
Prachuab Khiri Khan province, covers an area of approximately
99 sq.km encompassing a number of varied habitats including
steep limestone mountains, freshwater marsh, beaches, limestone
islands, mangrove remnants and coastal pools. The name Khao
Sam Roi Yot means "The Mountain With Three Hundred Peaks",
and whilst the number may be an exaggeration, the mountains,
which rise to a height of 605 m, are certainly a magnificent
backdrop to the aquatic habitats that provide the main ornithological
interest.
The forest on the mountains receives very little rainfall
and the vegetation reflects this as does a fairly sparse avifauna,
however, the wetland habitats more than make up for this and
provide an opportunity to see a large number of species in
a short length of time.
Thung Sam Roi Yot is one of the largest freshwater marshes
reamining in Thailand and it provides an important habitat
for numerous species of birds and other small animals. It
is a shame to see that encroachment into this area still regularly
occurs and that almost all the wetland areas to the seaward
side of the mountains have been converted to shrimp ponds
despite the international importance of the site.
In spite of these problems, this remains an excellent region
to find wetland species and indeed, some of the shrimp ponds
appear to be reverting to a more natural state. Additionally,
Khao Sam Roi Yot seems to be visited less often than it was
in the past and large areas of habitat that are seldom visited
exist, and the potential to find exciting birds here is high.
Birding Highlights
Waterbirds are the primary reason for visiting Khao Sam
Roi Yot National Park, with a large number of species present.
The beaches here are one of the few places where Malaysian
Plovers nest in Thailand along with small numbers of Little
Terns, but plenty of other wetland birds can be found on the
coastal shrimp ponds and the freshwater marsh.
Waders
such as Spotted Redshank, Broad-billed Sandpiper and Kentish
Plover are quite numerous here and Malaysian Plovers breed
in small numbers along the more lonely beaches. Birds such
as Caspian Tern and White-bellied Sea Eagle are also regularly
seen, not to forget that Spoon-billed Sandpiper has been recorded
here amongst flocks of Rufous-necked Stints in the past; checking
out any groups of small shorebirds could perhaps be rewarded.
In the freshwater marshes wintering Acrocephalus
warblers can be confusing but for those who wish to test their
identification skills this is one of the few regular wintering
grounds of Manchurian Reed Warbler.
Raptors
are can be a feature at Khao Sam Roi Yot too with the afore-mentioned
White-bellied Sea Eagle breeding on the cliffs. Eastern Marsh
Harrier fairly common as a winter visitor over the freshwater
marsh and this is good place to look out for Greater Spotted
Eagle and Oriental Hobby, a bird which likes to associate
with the limestone outcrops. With more observers visiting
this area during migratory periods impressive numbers of raptors
are likely as at the raptor watch site a few hundred kilometres
to the south at Chumpon.
Bird
Watching Trips:
If you need help organizing a bird watching trip to
Thailand, take a look at the suggested itineraries for
ideas on creating a tailor-made trip and contact me
for advice: Thailand
bird tours.
Travel Information
Khao
Sam Roi Yot National Park is a fairly easy place to get to;
regular buses run from the southern bus terminal in Bangkok
to the town of Pranburi via Cha-Am and Hua Hin; the journey
takes a little over 3 hours.
Songtaews
run from Pranburi to a small village in the national park.
There is some accommodation where this terminates, but if
you are heading to the headquarters or Hat Laem Sala then
a motorbike taxi from Pranburi is probably a better way to
get there. Motorcycle taxis can be found in various places
around the town.
On the
way into the park is a gate where the entry fee of 400
baht may or may not be collected. On my visit in July
2020 the fee was not on collected but on previous visits it
was.
For those
driving from Bangkok, simply follow the main route south and
follow the signs to Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park from Pranburi.
These signs are in English.
For birdwatchers
coming from the south any bus heading northwards will pass
through the town of Pranburi where the driver will stop if
asked.
For those
without transport wanting to visit Rong Jai marsh when staying
on the seaward side of the park it is worth asking the national
park staff to arrange a lift. I managed to get a ranger to
take me on his motorbike for 200 baht a number of years ago,
but I'm sure a bit more would be appropriate now.
Finding Birds
Wetland birds are the real attraction at Khao
Sam Roi Yot and birdwatching in any of the wetland areas along
the roads is likely to reveal a good number of species.
1. Around
HQ: A dirt track leading from HQ to the
sea passes through some areas of mud and wet patches. Areas
of coastal grassland in this area hold Red-throated Pipit
in winter and Yellow-legged Buttonquail at all times. Although
the trails sort of peter out here, it is possible to find
ones way along the coast in both directions and carry out
circular walks. Many wetland species can be found along here
including Broad-billed Sandpiper and White-bellied Sea Eagle,
but perhaps the most sought after species that is regular
here is Malaysian Plover. This species is pretty much restricted
to the beaches, be careful in identifying it as Kentish Plover
is also found here but prefers the inland pools and mudflats.
Ban
Khao Daeng: It is worth looking around
this village, particularly in the "winter" as rare
starlings such as Rosy Starling and Brahminy Starling have
been found and Plain-backed Sparrow is a resident. A track
leads to the coast where many other species can be seen -
Malaysian Plover being the most noteworthy.
South
of Sam Phraya: If one walks south along
the beach from Sam Phraya some scrubland is passed through
and at low tide a large mudflat is exposed. This is a good
place to observe many wading species such as Whimbrel, Spotted
Redshank, Sand Plovers and Egrets. The scrubland often holds
birds such as Forest Wagtail, Black-naped Oriole and other
passerines.
3.
Wetlands: Wetlands in this area consist
of shrimp ponds and overgrown fish ponds. Walking along the
road and spending time watching these pools can reveal a large
number of species Including crakes and rails, Black-winged
Stilt, Pintail and Common Snipe and a number of terns species;
occasionally Black-headed Ibis turns up.
4.
Fresh Marsh: The road
runs through the edge of the Rong Jai fresh marsh and spending
time here can reveal birds such as Eastern Marsh Harrier,
Oriental Reed Warbler, Black-browed Reed Warbler, Blunt-winged
Reed Warbler and Purple Heron in addition to many other open-country
and reedbed species.
5.
Rong Jai Marsh: A walkway into the marsh
allows visitors good views of reedbed species and the large
and colourful Purple Swamphen is easily found. Other excellent
birds like Yellow Bittern, Purple Heron and Oriental Reed
Warbler are often encountered. A dirt track along the marsh's
edge allows birders to find a high number of species here.
The national park office here is the start of a trail which
leads into the forest, passing through patches of marshland
and scrub. The forest here is not particularly rich in species
but I've seen Greater Racket-tailed Drongo and Greater Flameback
and there is the chance of other forest species along the
trail that eventually leads to a viewpoint.
6. Wetlands:
More wetlands along the road are worth stopping at and looking
for waders, rails and crakes, egrets and herons and other
open-country birds. Although some of the ponds in this area
look rather sterile they do attract species of waders when
water levels are right. The road leading to Bang Poo village
runs along some mangrove remnants, where Collared Kingfishers
can be found, and close to some rocky outcrops which are occupied
by Oriental Hobby.
Laem Sala Beach:
The trail over the rocks to Laem Sala isn't particularly
rich in species but does provide views over the Bang Poo bay
where a few shorebird can be found. From Laem Sala beach a
trail goes to a cave where Blue Whistling Thrush usually hangs
out and the beach itself is a nice place.
Facilities
Nearby
Pranburi beach has a lot of pleasant accommodation, restaurants
and is only a 10-15 minute drive from national park. The seaward
side of the national park has a number of options for accommodation,
but the freshwater marsh side did not on my last visit, however,
the visitor centre and ranger station at Rong Jai may have
a few rooms. It is much more pleasant, though, to stay on
the coast, not least because the light breezes clear the mosquitoes.
At headquarters
there are some rooms for rent and a small restaurant which
serves quite decent food at low prices. The staff at HQ also
have bicycles for hire which can be an excellent way of getting
around as walking everyone can be extremely exhausting due
to the long distances and intense heat. There is a campsite
here too, but on my last visit the toilets were very neglected
and the campsite was infested with mosquitoes.
At Ban
Khao Daeng there are a number of small shops that sell snacks,
refrigerated drinks and simple meals. There is also a company
that organises kayaking trips and boat trips along the river.
At Sam
Phraya beach there is a campsite with toilets and a restaurant
that serves passable food. It is a pleasant place to sit on
the beachfront and cook food if coming with camping gear.
Laem Sala
is a very picturesque spot and there are rooms for rent or
one can camp for a small fee. The rooms are for large groups
but the staff allowed me to stay in one for a small fee way
back in 1998, so it is worth asking. A restaurant here serves
food into the evening; I had possibly the worst meal I've
ever had in Thailand here, but I'm sure that things have improved
by now; if anyone eats here please e-mail me and tell me how
the food was.
At Bang
Poo village and further north along the coast there are a
series of small resorts. I've never visited any of these but
I'm sure the standard of accommodation is good and the food
typically excellent. For those with their own transport, these
resorts probably provide the best opportunity for comfort,
with only a short drive to the main birding spots. Also at
Bang Poo village, in the parking area where the trail to Laem
Sala begins are a number of small restaurants serving all
sorts of cheap meals. The seafood here is great and an assortment
of barbecued food is sold; this is a good place to relax after
a day's birding, eating good food and drinking beer.
Useful Books
Birds
of Thailand This field guide has set new standards in identifying
birds in the wild in Thailand. With the most up-to-date
taxonomy of any publication this is the book you need
if you are birdwatching in Thailand. Forget all of the
older guides and buy this one.
How
Birds Migrate This is one of the most informative books on birds
that I have ever read. Covering all aspects of bird
migration this is a great read for broadening your knowledge.
There are usually some cheap second-hand copies available
through the link above.
Bird
Watching Trips:
Khao Sam Roi Yot is a pleasant place to visit for birding
if staying at one of the nearby beach areas, including
Hua Hin. A large number of the species that occur here
can also be seen in Petchaburi province which is more
easily visited if you are based in Bangkok or visiting
Kaeng Krachan National Park. Khao Sam Roi Yot also makes
a good stop if travelling by road to/from the Central
and Southern regions.
I
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