Kaeng
Krachan National Park
(Updated 11/03/09) |
| Introduction |
| Kaeng
Krachan National Park, in Petchaburi and Prachuab Kiri Khan
provinces, is the largest National Park in Thailand, occupying 2915
square kilometres (1125 sq. miles). |
| Most
of the forest here is in excellent condition and consists
of evergreen species, although a number of deciduous species
are present, particularly on the lower elevations. Its location
on the border with Myanmar means it is part of a much larger
forest complex than just the National Park and an excellent
refuge for a huge number of species; indeed Kaeng Krachan
is part of one of the largest remaining stretches of forest
in Southeast Asia.
Kaeng
Krachan is within three hours of Bangkok so can be visited
as a day trip if one leaves before 5am, although it is much
better to stay 2-3 days and take time to explore the forest
- and it is worth visiting during the week to avoid the weekend
traffic. It is possible to see an enormous number of species
here by getting to many different altitudes and 100 species
in a day is a real possibility but would perhaps be too much
of a rush to enjoy fully. |
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| Birding
Highlights |

Giant Pitta
(By Suppalak
Klabdee) |
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Kaeng
Krachan National Park is home to a huge number and range of
species and is a place where some species that are rarely
seen anywhere else in Thailand can be found with patience.
This is where many southern species have their northernmost
outposts as well as being where many other species are at
their southernmost extremity. Kaeng Krachan is also the only
place in Thailand where Ratchet-tailed Treepie can be seen,
this species normally being found in Indochina.
A number
of exciting ground-dwelling species inhabit the lush forests
here but are hard to find, with Grey Peacock-Pheasant, Kalij
Pheasant, Ferruginous Wood-Partridge, Blue Pitta and Eared
Pitta all being found - but only by a lucky few. Giant Pitta
has also been seen here but sightings are EXTREMELY rare.
The mid and upper storeys of the forest are also very productive
in birding terms with many species from a wide range of bird
families occurring. Great Slaty Woodpecker, Orange-breasted
Trogon and Banded Broadbill are all regularly seen and more
species are being added to the park list every year as more
birders explore this wonderful habitat. There are so many
good birds to see here that a visit of at least 2-3 days is
warranted as well as birding at different altitudes to maximise
the number of species seen. |
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Hornbills
are some of the most memorable birds in Thailand and Kaeng
Krachan presents the opportunity to see Great, Oriental Pied
and Wreathed Hornbills. Rsuty-cheeked (recently split from
Brown Hornbill) are present but more scarce, although they
can be found in noisy flocks at various altitudes; there is
even a small chance of finding the little-known Plain-pouched
Hornbill in these forests.
With such
extensive forest of such excellent quality there is still
a good mammal population here. Many species of squirrel can
be found including the amazing Black Giant Squirrel which
looks more like a dog in a tree with Dusky Langurs, Banded
Langurs and White-heanded Gibbon often seen leaping around
in the canopy. Tigers, tapirs and elephants are still present
in Kaeng Krachan, although seldom seen, and there are even
rumours that Sumatran Rhinoceros, one of the world's most
endangered mammals, still roams the forests. Kaeng Krachan
does present visitors with one of the best chances of seeing
leopard in Southeast Asia with fairly frequent sightings with
Dhole and yellow-throated Marten sightings reasonably common.
Click
here for a checklist of the birds of Kaeng
Krachan |
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Silver-breasted
Broadbill
(By Banphot
Kittikinglert) |
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Tours : Check the suggested itineraries for
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| Travel
Information |
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Kaeng
Krachan National Park can be reached within 3 hours of Bangkok
if leaving early in the morning and driving a private vehicle. Get
on Rama 2 road and join the Petkasem Highway heading towards
Petchaburi for about two hours. A short distance before reaching
Petchaburi there is a new road bridge across the main highway.
Turn left and drive across the road bridge which will take
you onto the road heading towards Kaeng Krachan National Park.
Follow this road for about half an hour until it reaches a
T-junction; turn right here and follow the signs until reaching
park HQ, about another 20 minutes or so. The park gate will
take approximately another 20 minutes from HQ.
If coming
from the south, or having missed the turning, there is another
sign to the park, at Tha Yang, about 10 kilometres after Petchaburi:
follow this road all the way to HQ. |
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Arriving
by public transport is also possible, but will incur some expense. From
Bangkok take a bus to Petchaburi from the Southern bus terminal.
From Petchaburi one must charter a songtaew to the National Park
which should cost in the region of 600 baht one way. Finding a songtaew
will take a little effort but walking around the bus station asking
to go to Kaeng Krachan National Park should get the right response.
Taxis/songtaews for charter also wait at the town clock tower and
the Petchaburi Rama theatre. If communication is a problem show
the songtaew drivers the Thai script for the park: Kaeng
Krachan National Park Thai Script.
At park HQ,
or the park gate, permits and entrance fees can be sorted out and
at weekends there are drivers who offer a taxi service up and down
the mountain and I'm sure the staff at HQ can contact some of them
during the week. These drivers charge 1200 baht from HQ to Bang
Krang campsite and back or 1800 baht from HQ to the campsite at
Km 30 and back (2004 prices). If this is not possible continue with
your songtaew charter to the campsite (it will cost extra though).
For those wishing
to head to the campsite at Km 30 (Panoen Tung) timing is important.
From Bang Krang campsite the road is narrow and in poor repair and
certain times are allotted for ascent and descent. Times for going
up are 5.30-7.30 am and 1-3 pm. Times for going down are 9-10 am
and 4-5 pm. These times are important for those with limited time.
Driving up the road to Panoen Tung is best done in a vehicle with
good ground clearance, not a standard saloon car. Whilst the state
of the road does vary from time to time and one may read in some
trip reports that driving to the top in a saloon car was possible,
it is best to assume that the road will be fairly poor quality and
loose stones on corners in particular can make it difficult to get
enough traction. Even the dirt road to Ban Krang can be quite rutted
and a car with good ground clearance is advisable, whilst attempting
to cross the streams past Bang Krang campsite should be done with
caution even in vehicles with good ground clearance as the entry
and exits from the fords are quite steep - quite a number of visitors
have ripped parts of their cars' bodywork off at these streams.
For those driving
in and out of the park every day the gate opens at 5.30am and closes
at 7pm, although it is advisable to be out before that due to the
potential danger of elephants on the road. |
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| Finding
Birds |
Such
is the quality of the habitat at Kaeng Krachan that a large number
of interesting birds will be seen anywhere in the park, however,
there are few special locations for a few particular species.
Ratchet-tailed
Treepie can only be seen at the highest altitudes and has often
been spotted near the Royal Lodge a short walk from Panoen Tung
campsite, close to the restaurant at Panoen Tung and in the vicinity
of Km 27 to Km 29. It has also been seen at Km 24.
Grey Peacock-Pheasant,
Pittas and Partridges are most often found in the gullies and clearings
in the forest within a few kilometres of Ban Krang campsite and
the streams in this vicinity are a good place to search for some
of the rarer Kingfishers. All these species are really hard to find
and on a short visit one would do well to see more than 1 of these
species.
It is worth
noting that the majority of the birding is from the road and at
weekends constant traffic can make birdwatching quite unpleasant,
dusty and difficult. The park is to be completely avoided on public
holidays. |
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Access
Road: This road passes through
open-country at first and then enters disturbed forest which is
worth spending some time in for the more common birds. In the early
morning there is usually a lot of bird activity along this road
and it offers a good opportunity to see Thick-billed Pigeon, Black-naped
Oriole, Greater Flameback, Greater Yellownape, Hill Myna and Golden-crested
Myna. Black-thighed Falconets can often be found at a couple of
points along this road - look out for them nesting in old woodpecker
holes. Fruiting trees along here are home to various Barbets, Oriental
Pied and Great Hornbills, Black-and-red Broadbill to mention but
a few and when a tree which is bearing fruit is found it is worth
waiting some time to see what turns up.
Headquarters:
Although this is not the main reason to visit Kaeng Krachan, a decent
number of wetland and open-country species can be seen around headquarters
and it is worth exploring a little if waiting for transport up the
mountain or there has been some other delay. Egrets, Pond Herons
and Pipits can all be seen here and colourful birds such as Indian
Roller and White-throated Kingfisher are typical residents. Black-collared
Starling hangs around here too and is quite a handsome character. |

Green Magpie
(Photo by Suppalak
Klabdee) |
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Ban
Krang Campsite: There
really is some excellent birding to be had around here. Most
birders simply walk up and down the road and investigate small
side trails to find birds with Heart-spotted Woodpecker, Blue
Pitta, Green Magpie and Sultan Tit just a few of the regularly
seen species. Birds of prey often fly over the campsite with
Changeable Hawk Eagle and Crested Serpent Eagle being common.
This is also the location I've had my best views of Mountain
Hawk Eagle and Black Eagle.
A number
of birds can be found in the trees in front of the small ranger
building at Ban Krang, species such as White-rumped Shama,
Scaly-breasted Partridge, Flycatchers and Red Junglefowl and,
at night, Large-tailed Nightjars are common; listen for their
call which sounds like a resonant "chonk, chonk". |
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The
stretch of forest approaching stream 1 up to and beyond stream 3
is very productive for Broadbills in the breeding season with Silver-breasted
being common and Banded, Dusky and Black-and-yellow Broadbills all
quite findable by their calls. Orange-breasted Trogon is a beautiful
and exciting species which is fairly common along here and birds
such as Rufous-fronted Babbler, Hainan Blue Flycatcher, Asian Paradise
Flycatcher and Chestnut-breasted Malkoha are nice additions to the
day list.
White-fronted
Scops Owl: Kaeng Krachan is one of the few places
where birdwatchers have a chance of seeing this species. Reportedly,
it can be heard uttering its strange drumming call near to the river
crossings Km 16.5 and Km 16.9 within walking distance of Ban Krang
campsite, starting shortly before dark. The location for finding
these owls is illustrated below. More information on this species
is available here: White-fronted
Scops Owl at Kaeng Krachan, 15-19th February 2007.
Those wishing to find the owl must stay at Ban Krang campsite as
one cannot exit the park after dark due to the danger of elephants
on the road. In fact local birders and park rangers state that it
is foolish to go looking for this bird because of roaming elephants
and I have to say that whilst they may overstate the potential danger
I believe it is just a matter of time before one unfortunate birder
hunting for White-fronted Scops Owl gets crushed by an elephant
in the dark. If you wish to look for this bird it is probably better
to drive up the road in the light and stay out until dark, staying
close to the car. |
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Panoen
Tung Campsite: Some magnificent
views over the forest from this altitude and lots of birds too.
Ratchet-tailed Treepie is the star bird here but plenty of others
are here. Great Barbet is fairly easily seen calling noisily from
treetops and plenty of other interesting birds can be found such
as the attractive White-hooded Babbler, Grey Treepie, White-browed
Shrike-babbler, Dark-sided Flycatcher and Orange-bellied Leafbird.
There are a couple of trails up here that are rarely explored by
birders, so there is plenty for visitors to discover and a couple
of days at this altitude would be well-spent if time allows.
The restaurant
here has a nice view over the forest at the back of the shop and
sitting here whilst having lunch can provide views of White-browed
Scimitar-babbler, Vernal hanging Parrot and perhaps Crimson-winged
Woodpecker.
The road continues
past the campsite for a few kilometres to a trail to TorTip waterfall.
The trail goes through some nice forest where Pin-tailed Parrotfinch,
Black-and-yellow Broadbill, Banded Kingfisher, Red-bearded Bee-eater,
Banded Bay Cuckoo and Grey-headed Fish Eagle have all been seen
by a few lucky birders. |
| Facilities
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Facilities
within the national park are limited. At park headquarters there
are a few bungalows but the quality of these are pretty low. There
is also a decent campsite at HQ with good toilet facilities for
those that are required to wait here for any reason. However, park
HQ is some distance from the birding and most birders will want
to get to Ban Krang campsite which is pleasantly situated with enough
flat areas to pitch tents but very limited toilet facilities, barely
adequate for their purpose. Food is sometimes available from the
ranger canteen but frequently it is unavailable or the staff cannot
be bothered to cook, so it is worth bringing cooking equipment and
food if staying for a few days. There is camping equipment for hire;
tents, sleeping bags etc. but some of the tents are very poor so
don't be scared to ask for another one if the first one you get
is little more than a plastic bag and some sticks. The campsite
at Panoen Tung is considerably better, with good tents for hire
and a small restaurant and clean toilets and showers. Petchaburi
is a suitable place to stock up on food for the camping trip with
a large supermarket (Big C) on the main highway to the south. |
| For
those wishing to stay in comfort then Ban
Maka is a good option and closer to the park
gate than many other guesthouses with friendly owners who
speak good English and can provide a lift into the park itself;
in fact they go out of their way to help guests with any sensible
request. There are a number of other places just outside the
national park that cater to birdwatchers including Samarn
Camp just a few hundred metres from the park gate and Padang
Camp about 1.5 kilometres from the gate. Both of these places
have a few bungalows, serve good food and cold drinks. Padang
camp has wireless internet available for those that need it.
There are also a wide selection of guesthouses further from
the park gate, near the dam that are all pleasant enough if
all other options are exhausted. Staying at any guesthouse
does involve travelling into the park every morning and paying
the entrance fee every day.
The
entrance fee to this National Park is now 200
baht. |
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Lesser Necklaced
Laughingthrush on feeding station, Ban Maka. (Photo by Nick
Upton) |
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Review: Ban Maka by Robert DeCandido |
| Photo
Galleries |
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Butterflies
at Kaeng Krachan |
| Trip
Reports |
| Kaeng
Krachan National Park, 7-8th April 2000
Kaeng
Krachan National Park, 4th July 2000
Kaeng
Krachan National Park, 25th September 2000
Kaeng
Krachan, KNC & Krabi, 30th April-7th May 2001
Kaeng
Krachan, 19-21st June 2006
Thailand
Tour 10-24th January 2007
White-fronted
Scops Owl at Kaeng Krachan, 15-19th February 2007
Kaeng
Krachan, Laem Pak Bia/Pak Thale & Khao Yai, February 2008
Kaeng
Krachan & Laem Pak Bia/Pak Thale, 19-20th February 2008
Kaeng
Krachan,Tung Bang Jak & Khao Yai, 8-11th May 2008
Kaeng
Krachan & Tung Bang Jak, 4-5th July 2008 |
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by
Peter Ericsson
by Peter
Ericsson
by Peter
Ericsson
by Peter
Ericsson
by Dominic
Le Croissette
by K.
David Bishop
by Suthin
Niraphai
by John
Raven
by Nick
Upton
by Nick
Upton
by Nick
Upton |
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| Related
Blog Entries |
| Butterflies
at Kaeng Krachan
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A
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Kaeng
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Day Trip: Kaeng Krachan, Tung Bang Jak & Khao Yai
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A
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posted 26/03/08
Butterflies
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More
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| The
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