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Kaeng Krachan National Park
(Updated 11/03/09)
 Introduction
Kaeng Krachan National Park, in Petchaburi and Prachuab Kiri Khan provinces, is the largest National Park in Thailand, occupying 2915 square kilometres (1125 sq. miles).

Most of the forest here is in excellent condition and consists of evergreen species, although a number of deciduous species are present, particularly on the lower elevations. Its location on the border with Myanmar means it is part of a much larger forest complex than just the National Park and an excellent refuge for a huge number of species; indeed Kaeng Krachan is part of one of the largest remaining stretches of forest in Southeast Asia.

Kaeng Krachan is within three hours of Bangkok so can be visited as a day trip if one leaves before 5am, although it is much better to stay 2-3 days and take time to explore the forest - and it is worth visiting during the week to avoid the weekend traffic. It is possible to see an enormous number of species here by getting to many different altitudes and 100 species in a day is a real possibility but would perhaps be too much of a rush to enjoy fully.

 
Asian Fairy Bluebird Crested Jay
(Photos by Suppalak Klabdee)o
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 Birding Highlights

Giant Pitta
(By Suppalak Klabdee)
 

Kaeng Krachan National Park is home to a huge number and range of species and is a place where some species that are rarely seen anywhere else in Thailand can be found with patience. This is where many southern species have their northernmost outposts as well as being where many other species are at their southernmost extremity. Kaeng Krachan is also the only place in Thailand where Ratchet-tailed Treepie can be seen, this species normally being found in Indochina.

A number of exciting ground-dwelling species inhabit the lush forests here but are hard to find, with Grey Peacock-Pheasant, Kalij Pheasant, Ferruginous Wood-Partridge, Blue Pitta and Eared Pitta all being found - but only by a lucky few. Giant Pitta has also been seen here but sightings are EXTREMELY rare. The mid and upper storeys of the forest are also very productive in birding terms with many species from a wide range of bird families occurring. Great Slaty Woodpecker, Orange-breasted Trogon and Banded Broadbill are all regularly seen and more species are being added to the park list every year as more birders explore this wonderful habitat. There are so many good birds to see here that a visit of at least 2-3 days is warranted as well as birding at different altitudes to maximise the number of species seen.

Hornbills are some of the most memorable birds in Thailand and Kaeng Krachan presents the opportunity to see Great, Oriental Pied and Wreathed Hornbills. Rsuty-cheeked (recently split from Brown Hornbill) are present but more scarce, although they can be found in noisy flocks at various altitudes; there is even a small chance of finding the little-known Plain-pouched Hornbill in these forests.

With such extensive forest of such excellent quality there is still a good mammal population here. Many species of squirrel can be found including the amazing Black Giant Squirrel which looks more like a dog in a tree with Dusky Langurs, Banded Langurs and White-heanded Gibbon often seen leaping around in the canopy. Tigers, tapirs and elephants are still present in Kaeng Krachan, although seldom seen, and there are even rumours that Sumatran Rhinoceros, one of the world's most endangered mammals, still roams the forests. Kaeng Krachan does present visitors with one of the best chances of seeing leopard in Southeast Asia with fairly frequent sightings with Dhole and yellow-throated Marten sightings reasonably common.

Click here for a checklist of the birds of Kaeng Krachan

 
Silver-breasted Broadbill
(By Banphot Kittikinglert)
  Bird Tours : Check the suggested itineraries for ideas on creating a tailor-made birdwatching trip to Thailand: Thailand bird tours.
 Travel Information
Kaeng Krachan National Park  

Kaeng Krachan National Park can be reached within 3 hours of Bangkok if leaving early in the morning and driving a private vehicle. Get on Rama 2 road and join the Petkasem Highway heading towards Petchaburi for about two hours. A short distance before reaching Petchaburi there is a new road bridge across the main highway. Turn left and drive across the road bridge which will take you onto the road heading towards Kaeng Krachan National Park. Follow this road for about half an hour until it reaches a T-junction; turn right here and follow the signs until reaching park HQ, about another 20 minutes or so. The park gate will take approximately another 20 minutes from HQ.

If coming from the south, or having missed the turning, there is another sign to the park, at Tha Yang, about 10 kilometres after Petchaburi: follow this road all the way to HQ.

Arriving by public transport is also possible, but will incur some expense. From Bangkok take a bus to Petchaburi from the Southern bus terminal. From Petchaburi one must charter a songtaew to the National Park which should cost in the region of 600 baht one way. Finding a songtaew will take a little effort but walking around the bus station asking to go to Kaeng Krachan National Park should get the right response. Taxis/songtaews for charter also wait at the town clock tower and the Petchaburi Rama theatre. If communication is a problem show the songtaew drivers the Thai script for the park: Kaeng Krachan National Park Thai Script.

At park HQ, or the park gate, permits and entrance fees can be sorted out and at weekends there are drivers who offer a taxi service up and down the mountain and I'm sure the staff at HQ can contact some of them during the week. These drivers charge 1200 baht from HQ to Bang Krang campsite and back or 1800 baht from HQ to the campsite at Km 30 and back (2004 prices). If this is not possible continue with your songtaew charter to the campsite (it will cost extra though).

For those wishing to head to the campsite at Km 30 (Panoen Tung) timing is important. From Bang Krang campsite the road is narrow and in poor repair and certain times are allotted for ascent and descent. Times for going up are 5.30-7.30 am and 1-3 pm. Times for going down are 9-10 am and 4-5 pm. These times are important for those with limited time. Driving up the road to Panoen Tung is best done in a vehicle with good ground clearance, not a standard saloon car. Whilst the state of the road does vary from time to time and one may read in some trip reports that driving to the top in a saloon car was possible, it is best to assume that the road will be fairly poor quality and loose stones on corners in particular can make it difficult to get enough traction. Even the dirt road to Ban Krang can be quite rutted and a car with good ground clearance is advisable, whilst attempting to cross the streams past Bang Krang campsite should be done with caution even in vehicles with good ground clearance as the entry and exits from the fords are quite steep - quite a number of visitors have ripped parts of their cars' bodywork off at these streams.

For those driving in and out of the park every day the gate opens at 5.30am and closes at 7pm, although it is advisable to be out before that due to the potential danger of elephants on the road.

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 Finding Birds

Such is the quality of the habitat at Kaeng Krachan that a large number of interesting birds will be seen anywhere in the park, however, there are few special locations for a few particular species.

Ratchet-tailed Treepie can only be seen at the highest altitudes and has often been spotted near the Royal Lodge a short walk from Panoen Tung campsite, close to the restaurant at Panoen Tung and in the vicinity of Km 27 to Km 29. It has also been seen at Km 24.

Grey Peacock-Pheasant, Pittas and Partridges are most often found in the gullies and clearings in the forest within a few kilometres of Ban Krang campsite and the streams in this vicinity are a good place to search for some of the rarer Kingfishers. All these species are really hard to find and on a short visit one would do well to see more than 1 of these species.

It is worth noting that the majority of the birding is from the road and at weekends constant traffic can make birdwatching quite unpleasant, dusty and difficult. The park is to be completely avoided on public holidays.

Access Road Ban Krang Campsite Headquarters Panoen Tong Campsite

Access Road: This road passes through open-country at first and then enters disturbed forest which is worth spending some time in for the more common birds. In the early morning there is usually a lot of bird activity along this road and it offers a good opportunity to see Thick-billed Pigeon, Black-naped Oriole, Greater Flameback, Greater Yellownape, Hill Myna and Golden-crested Myna. Black-thighed Falconets can often be found at a couple of points along this road - look out for them nesting in old woodpecker holes. Fruiting trees along here are home to various Barbets, Oriental Pied and Great Hornbills, Black-and-red Broadbill to mention but a few and when a tree which is bearing fruit is found it is worth waiting some time to see what turns up.

Headquarters: Although this is not the main reason to visit Kaeng Krachan, a decent number of wetland and open-country species can be seen around headquarters and it is worth exploring a little if waiting for transport up the mountain or there has been some other delay. Egrets, Pond Herons and Pipits can all be seen here and colourful birds such as Indian Roller and White-throated Kingfisher are typical residents. Black-collared Starling hangs around here too and is quite a handsome character.


Green Magpie
(Photo by Suppalak Klabdee)
 

Ban Krang Campsite: There really is some excellent birding to be had around here. Most birders simply walk up and down the road and investigate small side trails to find birds with Heart-spotted Woodpecker, Blue Pitta, Green Magpie and Sultan Tit just a few of the regularly seen species. Birds of prey often fly over the campsite with Changeable Hawk Eagle and Crested Serpent Eagle being common. This is also the location I've had my best views of Mountain Hawk Eagle and Black Eagle.

A number of birds can be found in the trees in front of the small ranger building at Ban Krang, species such as White-rumped Shama, Scaly-breasted Partridge, Flycatchers and Red Junglefowl and, at night, Large-tailed Nightjars are common; listen for their call which sounds like a resonant "chonk, chonk".

The stretch of forest approaching stream 1 up to and beyond stream 3 is very productive for Broadbills in the breeding season with Silver-breasted being common and Banded, Dusky and Black-and-yellow Broadbills all quite findable by their calls. Orange-breasted Trogon is a beautiful and exciting species which is fairly common along here and birds such as Rufous-fronted Babbler, Hainan Blue Flycatcher, Asian Paradise Flycatcher and Chestnut-breasted Malkoha are nice additions to the day list.

White-fronted Scops Owl: Kaeng Krachan is one of the few places where birdwatchers have a chance of seeing this species. Reportedly, it can be heard uttering its strange drumming call near to the river crossings Km 16.5 and Km 16.9 within walking distance of Ban Krang campsite, starting shortly before dark. The location for finding these owls is illustrated below. More information on this species is available here: White-fronted Scops Owl at Kaeng Krachan, 15-19th February 2007. Those wishing to find the owl must stay at Ban Krang campsite as one cannot exit the park after dark due to the danger of elephants on the road. In fact local birders and park rangers state that it is foolish to go looking for this bird because of roaming elephants and I have to say that whilst they may overstate the potential danger I believe it is just a matter of time before one unfortunate birder hunting for White-fronted Scops Owl gets crushed by an elephant in the dark. If you wish to look for this bird it is probably better to drive up the road in the light and stay out until dark, staying close to the car.

Panoen Tung Campsite: Some magnificent views over the forest from this altitude and lots of birds too. Ratchet-tailed Treepie is the star bird here but plenty of others are here. Great Barbet is fairly easily seen calling noisily from treetops and plenty of other interesting birds can be found such as the attractive White-hooded Babbler, Grey Treepie, White-browed Shrike-babbler, Dark-sided Flycatcher and Orange-bellied Leafbird. There are a couple of trails up here that are rarely explored by birders, so there is plenty for visitors to discover and a couple of days at this altitude would be well-spent if time allows.

The restaurant here has a nice view over the forest at the back of the shop and sitting here whilst having lunch can provide views of White-browed Scimitar-babbler, Vernal hanging Parrot and perhaps Crimson-winged Woodpecker.

The road continues past the campsite for a few kilometres to a trail to TorTip waterfall. The trail goes through some nice forest where Pin-tailed Parrotfinch, Black-and-yellow Broadbill, Banded Kingfisher, Red-bearded Bee-eater, Banded Bay Cuckoo and Grey-headed Fish Eagle have all been seen by a few lucky birders.

 Facilities
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Facilities within the national park are limited. At park headquarters there are a few bungalows but the quality of these are pretty low. There is also a decent campsite at HQ with good toilet facilities for those that are required to wait here for any reason. However, park HQ is some distance from the birding and most birders will want to get to Ban Krang campsite which is pleasantly situated with enough flat areas to pitch tents but very limited toilet facilities, barely adequate for their purpose. Food is sometimes available from the ranger canteen but frequently it is unavailable or the staff cannot be bothered to cook, so it is worth bringing cooking equipment and food if staying for a few days. There is camping equipment for hire; tents, sleeping bags etc. but some of the tents are very poor so don't be scared to ask for another one if the first one you get is little more than a plastic bag and some sticks. The campsite at Panoen Tung is considerably better, with good tents for hire and a small restaurant and clean toilets and showers. Petchaburi is a suitable place to stock up on food for the camping trip with a large supermarket (Big C) on the main highway to the south.

For those wishing to stay in comfort then Ban Maka is a good option and closer to the park gate than many other guesthouses with friendly owners who speak good English and can provide a lift into the park itself; in fact they go out of their way to help guests with any sensible request. There are a number of other places just outside the national park that cater to birdwatchers including Samarn Camp just a few hundred metres from the park gate and Padang Camp about 1.5 kilometres from the gate. Both of these places have a few bungalows, serve good food and cold drinks. Padang camp has wireless internet available for those that need it. There are also a wide selection of guesthouses further from the park gate, near the dam that are all pleasant enough if all other options are exhausted. Staying at any guesthouse does involve travelling into the park every morning and paying the entrance fee every day.

The entrance fee to this National Park is now 200 baht.

 
Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush on feeding station, Ban Maka. (Photo by Nick Upton)
 Donations

If you found this page useful, please consider making a donation.

 Other Related Pages

Birdwatching Tours/Guiding

Other Western Thailand Birding Locations

Accommodation Review: Ban Maka by Robert DeCandido

 Photo Galleries


Sunset over the Lake


Forest Stream

Ban Krang Campsite

Woodpecker Tree

Forest View

View at Panoen Tung

View at Panoen Tung

Road to Panoen Tung Lodge
Butterflies at Kaeng Krachan


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 Trip Reports

Kaeng Krachan National Park, 7-8th April 2000

Kaeng Krachan National Park, 4th July 2000

Kaeng Krachan National Park, 25th September 2000

Kaeng Krachan, KNC & Krabi, 30th April-7th May 2001

Kaeng Krachan, 19-21st June 2006

Thailand Tour 10-24th January 2007

White-fronted Scops Owl at Kaeng Krachan, 15-19th February 2007

Kaeng Krachan, Laem Pak Bia/Pak Thale & Khao Yai, February 2008

Kaeng Krachan & Laem Pak Bia/Pak Thale, 19-20th February 2008

Kaeng Krachan,Tung Bang Jak & Khao Yai, 8-11th May 2008

Kaeng Krachan & Tung Bang Jak, 4-5th July 2008

 

by Peter Ericsson

by Peter Ericsson

by Peter Ericsson

by Peter Ericsson

by Dominic Le Croissette

by K. David Bishop

by Suthin Niraphai

by John Raven

by Nick Upton

by Nick Upton

by Nick Upton

 Related Blog Entries

Butterflies at Kaeng Krachan - posted 10/03/09

A Rainy Season Birding Trip - posted 09/08/08

Kaeng Krachan & Tung Bang Jak - posted 11/07/08

4 Day Trip: Kaeng Krachan, Tung Bang Jak & Khao Yai - posted 15/05/08

A Quest for Broadbills - posted 26/03/08

Butterflies at Kaeng Krachan - posted 24/03/08

More Birding at Kaeng Krachan & Laem Pak Bia/Pak Thale - posted 10/03/08

2 Great Days Birdwatching - posted 10/03/08

Tour of Thailand, 17 January to 6 February 2008 - posted 05/03/08

 Useful Books
The National Parks and Other Wild Places of Thailand
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