Suan Lumphini (Lumphini Park) is named
after the birthplace of Buddha, and is one of the few sizeable
areas of greenspace in Bangkok; used by many people in the
mornings for jogging, tai chi and even karaoke. In fact parts
of this park can get quite busy at times but bird watchers
frequently visit so you will not be out of place among a wide
variety of other users of the site.
Lumphini Park is largely ornamental in nature with areas of
mown grass, flower beds and various ponds, although there
are a few places where the grass is a little less cultivated
and a number of ancient trees provide shade for visitors and
a food source for birds. This park is a good place to take
an early morning stroll before spending the rest of the day
sightseeing, shopping in Bangkok or lazing under a shady tree
eating delicious local food.
The migratory periods of September-October and April-May are
likely to turn up the most interesting species in Lumphini
Park; quite a surprising number of species have been recorded
here, and of course this is where a large number of escaped
cage birds end up, so be careful before ticking what you see
here! This is an useful spot for birders to visit when in
Bangkok with non-birding friends/family or on business nearby.
Lumphini Park is a good place to see some of Thailand's most
common birds if you are on a quick visit to Bangkok and have
no time to go further afield. One of the most obvious birds
are Eastern Jungle Crows which are present in rather unnatural
numbers. However, a surprising number of other species can
be found here, especially during migratory periods. At all
times of the year Oriental Magpie-Robins can be seen hopping
around and singing from trees and Coppersmith Barbets can
be seen at very close quarters; a moment taken to listen to
their call soon reveals how they get their name.
Pied Fantail, Common and Great (White-vented) Mynas, Indochinese
Roller, Streak-eared Bulbul and Zebra Dove will be seen on
any short walk around the park and if the more overgrown corners
are explored then a number of flycatchers and leaf warblers
can be found at the right time of year. Less common migrants
in autumn and spring can include species as varied as Oriental
Dollarbird, Amur Paradise-flycatcher, Chestnut-winged Cuckoo
and Black Baza.
Bird
Watching Trips:
If you need help organizing a bird watching trip to Thailand,
take a look at the suggested itineraries for ideas on
creating a tailor-made trip and contact me for advice:
Thailand
bird tours.
Travel Information
Use the interactive map below to plan your route to
Lumphini Park. Zoom out to see the park's location in relation
to your hotel in Bangkok. Marked are two underground stations
(Yellow Pins) and one Skytrain station (Green Pin).
On Foot
If your hotel is nearby just walk to the park. Don't forget
that in hot weather even fairly short distances can seem like
a long way; particularly on the way back.
By Car/Motorcycle
Given the dreadful traffic in central Bangkok and the lack
of places to park, arrival by private car does not make any
sense at all here. However, you may be able to find somewhere
to park a motorcycle at one of the park gates, just inside
the park itself.
By Bus
A large number of bus routes pass close to Lumphini Park and
as the routes change from time to time it is best to use this
online tool to find out which bus goes from your location
to the park - Transit
Bangkok - Bangkok Bus Map.
By Taxi
Using a taxi is a convenient way of arriving at and departing
from Lumphini Park. If going by taxi ensure that the driver
starts the meter; it is illegal for him not to do so and if
the driver wants to haggle over the price you can be 100%
certain that he or she is trying to overcharge you. The driver
may not understand "Lumphini Park", so try the Thai
version; Suan Lum (pronounce it SooWun Lum: the u in Lum should
be pronounced as a short oo) or print the Thai script and
show the driver that: Suan
Lumphini Thai Script.
Tuk-Tuk/Motorcycle Taxi
Tuk-tuks are not metered so you must arrange a price. Tuk-tuks
are cheapest for short journeys, if your journey is a long
one a taxi is better, not to mention safer! Tuk-tuks can be
fun to use and the cheaper you get the fare, the faster and
more erratic will be the driving.
Motorcycle taxis are useful if you have to cross the city
in a hurry when it is gridlocked (which is most of the time),
but are extremely unsafe. In my time living in Bangkok I have
seen many fatal accidents involving motorcycle taxis; I wouldn't
recommend using one unless you really need to beat the traffic
or need to make a trip down a long side road with no other
transport and little traffic.
By Train
The skytrain is a comfortable and quick way of travelling
around town; if you are near a station I would recommend using
this method to get to Lumphini Park. Tickets are available
at the stations from machines or staff. Details of the Skytrain
(BTS) can be found here - Bangkok
BTS Map & Info.
The underground system is limited in scope but keeps expanding
and is also a useful way of getting around, similar to the
skytrain. Details of the underground (MRT) can be found here
- Bangkok
MRT Map & Info.
Finding Birds
A surprising number of birds have been recorded in Lumphini
park. The migratory periods in Spring and Autumn would be
the best time to see something really interesting here; a
number of migrant Flycatchers, Leaf Warblers or Shrikes can
quite easily turn up during these times.
Lumphini park is often visited in hope of seeing Vinous-breasted
Starling, and while it obviously makes an appearance from
time to time, few people tend to see it; I certainly never
have. For a good chance of observing this species try Pong
Salord in Petchaburi.
Getting to Lumphini Park early in the morning is a must for
birdwatchers as it can get extremely busy with runners, karaoke
warbling and people passing through, not to mention the heat
which becomes very uncomfortable after about 9 am.
There are a few places where certain species are likely
to be seen in Lumphini Park;
Area 1:
A number of mature trees here have a dense canopy and seem
to hold quite a few birds. Flowerpeckers and Sunbirds abound
in these trees, and in the "winter" months various
Leaf Warblers frequent them in search of insects.
Area 2:
Along the "stream" here there are a number of trees
which seem to be favourite calling posts for Coppersmith Barbets.
These trees aren't too high or too dense, so that by approaching
the calling bird carefully, very close views are available.
Mynas seem to like the large area of grass in this region
of the park, with Common and White-vented Mynas abundant and
Black-collared Starling a frequent and very handsome resident.
Ponds 3:
These ponds provide the best chance of seeing some water birds,
with Little Egret and Javan Pond Heron usually present; try
and separate these from Chinese Pond Herons in the dry season.
In spring you may be lucky enough to see both of these species
in breeding plumage and as Indian Pond Heron is increasingly
seen in Thailand, it is worth checking for this species too.
Common Sandpiper on migration is possible here and Blue-tailed
Bee-eaters often perch in a nearby tree and feed over the
ponds. Some less well kept areas of the park are around these
ponds which might turn up some interesting migrants at the
right time of year with Taiga (Red-throated) Flycatcher virtually
guaranteed.
Facilities
One would assume that having made it to Lumphini Park accommodation
will already have been arranged. If not there are many hotels
of varying price and quality in the vicinity of Silom, Sathorn
and Surawong roads; the selection of accommodation is huge
and there is something for all budgets; follow the link in
the banner above to search for hotels by area and budget.
Due to its close proximity to shopping areas, whatever facility
that is required is only a short walk away from Lumphini Park;
restaurants, pubs, convenience stores, pharmacies, banks,
public transport and hospitals. However, if the heat is draining
your energy and immediate refreshment is needed there are
a few kiosks around the park selling drinks and snacks. Sometimes
various vendors can be found in or near to the park, selling
such treats as fruit, ice-cream and som-tam (spicy papaya
salad). In the afternoon/evenings you may even find fried
insects being sold in the park area.
If the birding isn't what you hoped for, or you simply fancy
a rest, there are a variety of boats for hire to take out
onto the lake. I can't say what the cost is as I have never
done it myself, but I can't imagine that it is very much.
There is also a "muscle beach" type area in the
park for those people that wish to combine their birdwatching
with an early morning workout, and for those with a weak bladder
there are a few public toilets around the park.
If you feel like joining in with one of the keep fit classes
that take place in the park I am sure you will be very welcome
Birds
of Thailand This field guide has set new standards in identifying
birds in the wild in Thailand. With the most up-to-date
taxonomy of any publication this is the book you need
if you are birdwatching in Thailand. Forget all of the
older guides and buy this one.
How
Birds Migrate This is one of the most informative books on birds
that I have ever read. Covering all aspects of bird
migration this is a great read for broadening your knowledge.
There are usually some cheap second-hand copies available
through the link above.
Birdwatching
Trips:
Lumphini Park is a great spot to visit for birding if
you are stuck in Bangkok with just a few hours to spare
but if you want to see more of Thailand's birds then day
trips out of the city and longer tours are excellent.
Download
a full 
