Suan Rot Fai, in Bangkok, used to be
a golf course until about the year 2000 and this former land
use is apparent when taking a walk around the park with obvious
fairways and, in some cases, greens and bunkers surviving.
This welcome green space, in what is a very crowded city,
is very well-used by local people and when walking around
some parts of it at the right time of day it is possible to
have the impression of being somewhere far more suburban if
not rural. Of course, birds make use of this valuable oasis
of habitat too with quite a good number and variety able to
be seen in a 2-3 hour morning visit at any time of the year.
For birders trapped in Bangkok, or with only a morning or
late afternoon to spare, Suan Rot Fai offers the chance to
see around 40 species, just a short taxi ride from the city
centre, and at the same time providing an opportunity to escape
the smog, traffic and noise that can prove very stressful
throughout the city. At certain times of the year the park
offers birders a very good chance of finding a rarity or two
as many passage migrants stop here to feed and rest as they
head to their wintering/breeding grounds. Due to the ease
of access from most of central Bangkok, this park is the best
prospect for those birders with just a short amount of time
to go birding and during migratory periods it is an excellent
place to see a good variety of passage migrants.
Suan Rot Fai is probably the best place to see birds in the
centre of Bangkok due to its size and ease of access. Many
of the birds that are resident in the city can be found in
a single morning here; Coppersmith Barbet, Indochinese Roller,
Pied Fantail, Olive-backed Sunbird, Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker
and Oriental Magpie Robin are all abundant.
Finding migrants is one of the most exciting aspects of visiting
Bangkok's parks for birding and any visit during the dry season
is likely to turn up Asian Brown Flycatcher, Yellow-browed
Warbler, Taiga Flycatcher, Brown Shrike, Black-naped Oriole,
Ashy Drongo and Common Kingfisher.
However, this is also an excellent place for finding much
rarer migrants, particularly in September/October and March/April
when species such as Yellow-rumped Flycatcher, Forest Wagtail,
Siberian Blue Robin, Blyth's & Amur Paradise Flycatchers
and many others are frequently found as they pass through.
Rarer migrants which have been found here include Ruddy Kingfisher,
Siberian Thrush, Blue-winged Pitta and Thailand's first record
of Hartert's Leaf Warbler. On a good morning here during autumn
or spring migration the birding can be very interesting indeed.
There is a high probability of seeing escaped cage birds here,
from Chatuchak market, as it is a stone's throw away, meaning
that any birds escaping from captivity on market days will
almost inevitably find their way to Suan Rot Fai. I have seen
Straw-headed Bulbul in the park and other birds of dubious
origin have been seen here, and no doubt will continue to
be seen; there seems to be a feral population of Red-whiskered
Bulbul, White-crested Laughingthrush and White-rumped Shama
here.
A checklist of the birds for this location can be found here
-Suan
Rot Fai
Bird
Watching Trips:
If you need help organizing a bird watching trip to Thailand,
take a look at the suggested itineraries for ideas on
creating a tailor-made trip and contact me for advice:
Thailand
bird tours.
Travel Information
Use the interactive map below to plan your journey to
Suan Rot Fai (Red Pin). Drive and park at the car park (Blue
Pin) or get off at the underground station (Green Pin) or
Skytrain station (Yellow Pin) and walk. Take a taxi to Kampaeng
Phet Road 3 and enter the park here.
By Car/Motorcycle
Should you wish to drive your own vehicle to the park there
is a car park on the north side of the park as well as a large
multi-storey car park in Cnetral Plaza, Lad Prao, just across
the road. If you are on Bangkok's streets very early, before
6am, traffic will be fairly light but this area experiences
extremely high volumes of traffic after that. Usually Bangkok's
notorious traffic is not too bad between 10am and 2pm so if
you are driving I would recommend doing so in these hours.
Motorbikes have the advantage of being able to weave in and
out of the traffic but the disadvantage of being extremely
high risk.
By Bus
This area is served by very many city buses, around thrity
different routes pass here; it is best to use this website
for planning bus journeys on Bangkok - Transit
Bangkok. Using buses is very cheap but unless it is one
of the air conditioned buses it will be a very hot and dusty
journey.
By Taxi/Motorcycle Taxi/Tuk Tuk
One of the most convenient ways for visitors to get to Suan
Rot Fai is by taxi; most taxi drivers know the park but if
there is any communication trouble show them the park's name
in Thai script: Suan Rot
Fai Thai Script. The most convenient place for
most taxi journeys to end is on Kampaeng Phet III Road from
where there are a couple of obvious entrances to the park
but your taxi driver may well drop you off at another spot,
it does not really matter.
Tuk-tuks are a rather manic form of transport and not usually
an economic choice so unless you are staying close by I would
not recommend using these as the near-death incidents
and pollution should put off all but the most masochistic
traveler and taking a motorcycle taxi along the busy roads
that lead to Suan Rot Fai is an option only for those that
do not care whether they live or die!
By Train
By far the most comfortable and cool alternative is to arrive/leave
by train. There are many skytrain stations in the city centre
and the line terminates near Suan Rot Fai at Morchit station
on Phayon Yothin Road. The station is right in front of Chatuchak
market and it is only a short walk through the small Chatuchak
park to the much larger Suan Rot Fai after crossing Kampaeng
Phet III Road. The underground also stops at almost exactly
the same spot as the skytrain - the two stations are just
100 metres or so away from each other. The underground is
known as the MRT and the station to get off at is Chatuchak.
By Boat
Although the river bus is a cheap and interesting way to access
much of Bangkok, Suan Rot Fai is not close enough to the river
to make it a worthwhile option.
Finding Birds
Finding the commoner birds in Suan Rot Fai is not very
difficult, with most of them being fairly abundant and easily
encountered, particularly in the early hours of the morning
before it gets hot. Finding wintering and passage migrants
usually requires more patience and poking around in the more
unkempt corners of the park.
Lotus
Lake: This lotus covered lake is quite obviously
a good place to see a few waterbirds, even to the uninitiated
it provides by far the most attractive habitat for this type
of bird in Suan Rot Fai. Both Javan and Chinese Pond Herons
frequent this lake, although you will have to wait until March-May
to tell them apart, and there is likely to be a Striated Heron
or two skulking around here too. Asian Openbill is becoming
a fairly common sight in all parts of the city and this is
where you are most likely to see one hunting for food. Little
Egret is likely to be seen here too and perhaps Common Kingfisher
can be spotted in the "winter" months perched on
one of the overhanging trees.
Less common waterbirds are sometimes sighted at Suan Rot Fai
and this is a good place to perhaps find a Yellow Bittern.
Others have found Cinnamon Bittern and once even a Watercock
during a period of severe flooding.
In the trees around the lake one is likely to find a number
of the commoner species such as Plaintive Cuckoo, Pied Fantail,
House Sparrow, Eastern Jungle Crow and Scaly-breasted Munia.
Park
Edge: Where the park borders the expressway
is one of the scruffiest parts of the site with piles of brush
and trees which overhang the canal. Consequently this is a
good place to find insectivorous birds such as wintering Asian
Brown Flycatchers, Thick-billed Warblers, Ashy Drongos, Taiga
Flycatchers, Yellow-browed Warblers as well as scarcer passage
migrants; perhaps a Forest Wagtail, Fork-tailed Drongo Cuckoo,
Eyebrowed Thrush or Yellow-rumped Flycatcher could be found
here. The tall trees in this spot seem to frequently host
Black-naped Oriole and Blue-tailed Bee-eater both of which
like to perch out in the open in the early morning.
Certainly, due its neglected state, this is one of the more-seldom
visited corners of the park, so that human disturbance is
less of a problem and it could be worth hanging around here,
during migratory periods, to see what passes through; White-throated
Rockthrush and Large-tailed Nightjar have both been found
here and more interesting species are sure to be awaiting
discovery in the future.
Overgrown
Canal : This canal with its rather overgrown
fringing vegetation is an excellent area for birders to spend
time in looking for migrant passerines. Commoner migrants
will include Arctic Warbler, Eastern Crowned Warbler, Asian
Brown Flycatcher, Dark-sided Flycatcher while Yellow-rumped
Flycatcher, Ashy Minivet and Mugimaki Flycatcher are regular
too.
The potential for rarer birds is high with Siberian Blue Robin,
Brown-chested Jungle-flycatcher and Tiger Shrike having been
found here too. Birds such as Indian Cuckoo, Large Hawk Cuckoo,
Eyebrowed Thrush and Crow-billed Drongo are annual passage
migrants too and this would be a likely place to find them.
Those who are not familiar with Bangkok's resident species
will find Coppersmith Barbet, Asian Koel, Pied Fantail, Common
Iora and Common Tailorbird around here as well as others;
I have also seen Lineated Barbet in this area.
Butterfly
House : The areas either side of the Butterfly
House are part of a tree nursery and contain a nice mixture
of trees which can attract a number of small passerines. I
have seen White-rumped Shama, Black-naped Monarch and Grey-headed
Canary-flycatcher here as well as Thailand's first, long-staying,
Hartert's Leaf Warbler in early 2015. Other overwintering
and passage Leaf Warblers are very likely in this habitat;
Two-barred, Yellow-browed, Eastern Crowned, Radde's and Arctic
Warblers are all regular here. Pale-legged and Sakhalin Leaf
Warblers are probable here and at other spots in the park
- you will have to induce them to sing at the end of March/April
to be able to confidently tell them apart though.
Bird
Watching Trips:
Suan Rot Fai provides a nice morning's birding,
particularly when migration is in full swing;
a good addition to a longer Thailand birding trip
at the right time of year.
Adding this location to a birding trip to Thailand
will give photographers the chance to get close
to a number of species and birders will get the
opportunity to see a few species that are otherwise
scarce in Thailand.
Contact me to arrange a birding trip and/or to
discuss the best bird watching options for you:
nickupton@thaibirding.com
This area closely resembles woodland and it has turned up
a variety of good birds over the years including several migrant
Cuckoos. However, park staff are quite touchy about people
entering the area and there are a number of signs which say
"Staff Only" so visitors should please only watch
birds from the spots where the public obviously has access
so as to not upset the park staff and cause problems for those
who regularly bird watch at Suan Rot Fai.
Grassy
Areas : Much of the park is rather manicured,
with lots of lawns and ornamental trees which clearly demarcate
parts of the old gold course here. These areas are not prime
birding spots but, particularly in the early morning, they
are favoured by species such as Common Myna, Great (White-vented)
Myna, Black-collared Myna and Asian Pied Myna. House Sparrow
and Eurasian Tree Sparrow will feed alongside each other on
these lawns while Eastern Cattle Egrets and Pond Herons will
often be seen strutting around picking out prey from the grass.
The trees surrounding these lawns will often contain Coppersmith
Barbet and is a good place to see plenty of Asian Koels; a
bird which is usually heard far more often than seen. Migrants
in these trees will usually include Ashy Drongo, Hair-crested
Drongo, Black Drongo and Black-naped Oriole while Blue-tailed
Bee-eaters frequently perch on these trees on order to launch
their hunting sorties.
Lonely
Pools : This set of long pools is set well
between two main tracks and consequently they receive low
levels of human disturbance, making them quite a good place
to find birds. For much of their length these pools are bordered
by overhanging trees and this makes them attractive to species
such as Common and Black-capped Kingfishers as well as the
ubiquitous Pied Fantail. A few migrants that like to be close
to water could be found here and there have been sightings
of Siberian Rubythroat, Oriental Reed Warbler and Dusky Warbler
along here. There are a few damp hollows and overgrown patches
in the vicinity of these pools too so watch where you walk
and look out for skulkers.
Wooded
Walkway : This area used to be more overgrown
and secluded and in the past turned up interesting migrant
birds such as Narcissus Flycatcher, Brown Boobook and Blue-winged
Pitta. Gowever, these days it is rather more manicured but
the trees here seem to be favourites of the colourful Coppersmith
Barbet.
Bangkok
City Birding
Dave
Gandy's Bangkok City Birding blog is the best
source of up-to-date information on bird sightings
at Suan Rot Fai.
Information from Bangkok City Birding proved invaluable
in updating this page: Bangkok
City Birding
Ornamental
Gardens : These gardens are the most cared
for section with flower displays and regularly maintained
gardens. This area is also actually known as Queen Sirikit
Park but I include it on this page as it is connected to Suan
Rot Fai. Common species such as Streak-eared Bulbul, Asian
Koel, House Sparrow, Common Iora, Common Tailorbird and Oriental
Magpie Robin will always be seen in this area but for those
with time there are some dense areas of vegetation where a
few migrants such as Thick-billed Warbler could be skulking
and Collared Scops Owl has been found in here too; finding
passage migrants takes some effort and this area should not
be ignored.
Being the part of the site closest to Chatuchak Market this
is where escaped species are probably most likely to be encountered;
I have seen an escaped Straw-headed Bulbul here.
Nurseries
: This area of the park is dominated by the
plant-growing section of the site. At first glance it does
not appear to be a good place for birding but around the edges
and behind some of the buildings are piles of dead and rotting
vegetation that may attract insectivorous birds.
Tall trees can attract leaf warblers, drongos and Black-naped
Oriole and particularly when trees here are flowering something
interesting could turn up; at all times Olive-backed and Brown-throated
Sunbirds are likely to be in residence as well as Scarlet-backed
Flowerpecker.
Suan Rot Fai is one of those locations which rewards those
birders who visit on a regular basis, particularly when the
weather conditions are right during migration in autumn and
spring. At these times it is worth birding in the park on
a daily basis to see which species have recently arrived and
perhaps a rarity can be found.
Facilities
There are a large number of facilities in and around this
park situated, as it is, within the capital city. In terms
of accommodation there is a vast choice of hotels, indeed
Bangkok offers top rate hotels at some of the lowest
prices in the world as well as a full range of other hotel
types; the Centara
Grand at Central Plaza Lad Prao is the nearest accommodation
if you should wish to stay close by..
Close to the park is Chatuchak market where virtually anything
can be purchased and numerous foodstalls sell cheap and tasty
food. Across the road from the park is a large shopping mall,
Central Plaza Lad Prao, with a full range of shops and many
places to eat. This mall is air conditioned so it is a good
place to cool off after a hot morning in the park.
Throughout the park are a few food/drinks kiosks for those
that haven't taken anything with them and at the car park/main
entrance there are several small shops. My advice would be
to take water and a snack and then take lunch somewhere else
in Bangkok, although if food becomes an immediate necessity
then simple foodstalls will be found virtually anywhere just
a short walk from any of the entrances.
If you need cash there are ATM machines in the skytrain station
nearby as well as a few money exchange booths. There are also
a number of small shops in the skytrain station that sell
cold drinks and bakery products.
For those with a non-birding partner or a family this is a
good place to simply take a walk or play and there are boats
on the lake and bicycles for hire as well as a children's
playground.
This location is not a National Park and you will not be charged
to go birding here.
Birdwatching
Trips:
Suan Rot Fai is a good place for a few hours birding when
in Bangkok but to see more of Thailand's bird life a longer
tour to a variety of habitats is necessary.
Birds
of Thailand This field guide has set new standards in identifying
birds in the wild in Thailand. With the most up-to-date
taxonomy of any publication this is the book you need
if you are birdwatching in Thailand. Forget all of the
older guides and buy this one.
How
Birds Migrate This is one of the most informative books on birds
that I have ever read. Covering all aspects of bird
migration this is a great read for broadening your knowledge.
There are usually some cheap second-hand copies available
through the link above.
Download
a full 
