If traveling by bus from the south, any bus from Phuket to Ranong will go via Kuraburi. It is probably best to get off in the town and get a motrocycle taxi to the park headquarters for about 20-30 baht. If coming from Bangkok the quickest way is to come via Surat Thani (SooRat TarNee) and Takua Pa and get off the bus at Kuraburi. It is possible to go via Ranong, but the route is very winding and slow and can be quite frightening with the wrong bus driver! If approaching by car from this direction there are many places along the coast worth exploring for birds and peaceful hideaways.

From park headquarters at Kuraburi one must book accomodation and a boat. There are a number of companies in small shops across the road that deal with this, boats leave for the islands in the morning and return to the mainland in the afternoon; slow boats cost about 600 baht per person return in 2004 and took 3-4 hours, fast boats took half the time and cost considerably more.

Once on Ko Surin Nuea most of the forest birds can be seen by walking the trail between the two campsties, but others can be seen by exploring the rocky coasts or by hiring boats to gain access to secluded beaches and the other islands.

On Ko Surin Nuea there is the possiblity of finding a high number of birds considering the quality and amount of forest habitat available. Taking into account how underwatched it is, there is plenty of potential finding species to add to the list.

Nicobar Pigeons are present on the island although not often seen. I would imagine the best chance of seeing one would be to explore the low-lying forest to the west of campsite 2, although there are no trails in this area, alternatively find a guide to help you look for them.

Green Imperial Pigeons were ubiquitous on the island when I was there in March 2004, although more easily heard than seen. However, such was their number that eventually good views are assured.

Large Green Pigeons are another speciality of Ko Surin Nuea, being recorded by a number of observers over a number of visits.

White-bellied Sea Eagles can be seen anywhere around the National Park, but are particularly easily seen from boats while snorkelling.

Most birders come to Ko Surin in hope of seeing Beach Thick-knee. I was unfortunate on my visit and didn't see any, but the boatmen took me to Ao Sai-En searching for one and they have been regularly spotted here.

There are a few short trails to follow on Ko Surin Nuea;

Trail 1: This surprisingly long trail runs for about 3 kilomtres from the headquarters at campsite 1to trail 2. It takes the walker through lush forest along the steep side of the island. A number of birds can be seen along this trail in the early morning, including Pigeons in fruiting trees and Pacific Reef Egrets on the reef at low tide. It is quite a good idea to take lunch at the restaurant at the campsite that you didn't start from and do some snorkelling there to relax after the sweaty walk through the forest. If you don't fancy the walk back you can get a boat from campsite 1 to the start of trail 2, or the other way around depending on where you started.

Most people are happy to camp in the pre-pitched tents close to the beach. These are quite sizeable and the 400 baht per night fee seems a bit much, but does include bedding rental which is provided clean every day. It is not possible to pitch your own tent on this island. Toilets and showers are plentiful, spacious and clean considering where you are. A short walk through the forest brings you to the quieter Had Lek (small beach) where the same camping options are available, although food is not. This would mean walking a few hundred metres in the dark to eat in the evening.

The following table lists the accommodation options available at Mu Ko Surin which are supposed to be booked before arrival at the National Park Department in Bangkok; 61 Phahonyothin Road, Chatuchak, Bangkok 10900. If your Thai isn't great I'm not sure how easy this would be, but the number to call is; 02 579 7223 or try booking through the internet at www.dnp.go.th

Most people who want to camp just book tents at the park headquarters on the mainland at Kuraburi.

While visiting the Surin Islands it is worth taking a snorkelling trip. These leave every day and are ludicrously cheap at 50 baht per person for a morning or afternoon, visiting alternating locations each day so that one could go for the morning and afternoon two days in a row and not go to the same location twice. Snorkelling equipment is available to hire on the island at low prices.

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Jan Wilczur's Bird Art: Gurney's Pitta, Banded Pitta & Rufous-collared Kingfisher