Khao Soi Dao Wildlife Sanctuary is part of the highest mountain range in south-eastern Thailand and forms a large wilderness area with the adjacent Khao Kitchakut National Park. As part of the Cardomom mountains, much of the avifauna found here is more closely related to that found in Cambodia than that of the rest of Thailand. Indeed, a few species can only be found in this region and a number of distinct subspecies are unique to this area as well.

Khao Soi Dao is in one of the wettest regions of the country and the lush forest found here is quite spectacular with one of the most picturesque waterfalls of any location in Thailand, with fabulous views over the rainforest from the top for those with the energy to climb up. This is a good place to go birding before or after a relaxing visit to the nearby Ko Chang, and an opportunity to get to an area of excellent habitat which is rarely visited by groups of birders. This wildlife sanctuary has a reasonable park infrastructure and a few good trails which give bird watchers the opportunity to find some very seldom seen species.

Blue-rumped Pitta would have to be the pick of all the species occurring at Khao Soi Dao and indeed, in Thailand this species is restricted to this wildlife sanctuary and its immediate surroundings. Black-browed Fulvetta is another bird which is restricted to this part of Thailand as is the lewisi subspecies of Silver Pheasant.

Khao Soi Dao seems to be a consistently good place to see Needletails with White-throated Needletail recorded here fairly often, even though it is the rarest of Thailand's Needletail species. The secretive Malayan Night Heron is another bird which seems to pop up at Khao Soi Dao more often than it does in other places and a sighting of this species alone would be reason enough to visit the sanctuary. The quality of the forest at Khao Soi Dao is such that a very large number of forest species can be found. Pompadour Pigeon can sometimes be seen near headquarters and this is also a good place to get close views of Violet Cuckoo, Asian Barred Owlet and Dusky Broadbill. 

Khao Soi Dao is easy to get to and is ideal for people using public transport. From Ekamai (Eastern) bus station on Sukhumvit Road in Bangkok a bus to Chantaburi will take around 5 hours. From the bus station in Chantaburi take any bus going north towards Sa Kaeo on highway number 317. At the 62nd kilometre marker there is a sign with "Khao Soi Dao Waterfall" written in English. Get off the bus here and walk the 4 kilometres to the Wildife Sanctuary or hitch a lift. There are a couple of small shops at this junction and it would be possible to arrange a lift to the Wildlife Sanctuary HQ from one of these. It is also possible (and perhaps advisable) to get off at the town of Soi Dao (just past the sanctuary turn off) and take a motorcycle taxi or tuk tuk to the HQ.

About 20 kms south of the turning for the HQ is a turning for Khao Soi Dao Dtai (South). Birders can camp here and climb the mountain, but it is not easy to find the trail and I've been told that the HQ and waterfall area is probably a better option for most birders. Details of this location are given in Charles Davies's trip report.

Road to waterfall car park : Early in the morning this road is ideal for birders, although at weekends it can get a little busy later in the day with people heading to the waterfall; the gate is open for cars to use this road between 9am and 4pm. Banded Kingfisher is often heard and seen along this track and Green Pigeons frequently fly overhead. This can be an excellent place in the early morning and sightings of Oriental Pied, Great and Wreathed Hornbills attest to the quality of the forest here. Banded Broadbill and Orange-breasted Trogon are colourful and frequent additions to the trip list along this road and this is also a good place to watch butterflies. Asian Barred Owlet seems to frequent this area too.

Toilets are present where the road finishes and the trail begins but there is no food here so it is useful to take breakfast before birding the road and heading onto the waterfall. The road opens to vehicles at 9am and closes again at 4pm.

Waterfall Trail (Trail D) : This takes birders through the forest and up to a wonderful waterfall. It is possible to cross the river at the bottom of the falls and then climb to the top for an excellent view. The forest is good for birds with Blue-rumped Pitta and Silver Pheasant being the specialities to look for. Beyond the waterfall one can climb to the mountain summit and look for Siamese Partridge. In the wet season there can be lots of annoying leeches in the vicinity of the waterfall so it is a good idea to bring leech socks!

Trail E : This trail crosses the river and forks into two long trails through the forest. I haven't explored them fully, but I'm told one eventually ascends Khao Soi Dao Neua and the other eventually emerges at the western boundary of the sanctuary; I once followed the trail for about 1 kilometre and saw a flock of Pompadour Pigeons feeding on a fruiting tree.

Although accommodation can be arranged it must be done in advance and it is highly unlikely that you will be given a roof over your head if you just show up. For those that want to be right in the forest it is advisable to come prepared to camp at Khao Soi Dao. I have camped here, and to my knowledge it is essential to bring ones' own tent, but the campsite is conveniently placed and even during busy periods is not too crowded and there are toilets available. 

A number of foodstalls 200 metres before HQ have a good range of cheap Thai food and a selection of drinks. There is also a small restaurant just to the left of the entrance gate as one goes into the wildlife sanctuary where the staff are helpful and cook tasty meals until about 6pm.

For those needing to stay in Chantaburi, there are a number of fairly decent hotels a short walk from the bus station.

Wild Banana

Knight

Common Glassy Tiger

Thailand, 31st March - 13th April 2005

Khao Soi Dao Dtai, 2004 & 2005

by Vincent Van Der Spek

by Charles Davies