Doi Chiang Dao National Park
(Updated 26/08/20)

Doi Chiang Dao National Park, in Chiang Mai province, is Thailand's third highest mountain at 2220 metres and, viewed from Chiang Dao village, is one of the most spectacular sights in the whole country.

Doi Chiang Dao from nearby paddies (Photo by Nick Upton)

This limestone massif has a number of peaks and ridges over two thousand metres in a horseshoe shape and has a series of forest types that change with altitude. The variety of forest types and altitude of the mountain combined with its close proximity to Myanmar result in a large number of exciting birds found here as well as some excellent views and a relaxing atmosphere. Doi Chiang Dao is certainly the most spectacular mountain in Thailand when seen from a distance.

There is a good range of intact forests from the lower slopes of the mountain of Doi Chiang Dao to the high summit. Forest types here include dry dipterocarp woodlands in the lower areas, to moist evergreen forest and areas of pine woodland with mixed deciduous areas higher up.

Although there is a small hilltribe population in one corner of the park most of this area is too steep for it to come under much threat. However, peridically there have been potentially damaging projects proposed by the authorities that have included a cable car and several road projects.

A short stay at Chiang Dao can suit both birders and non-birders as the views, temples and local cuisine are of interest to non-biders while good habitat is easily accessible to birders.

Giant Nuthatch (Photo by Nick Upton)

Two species are the main target birds for most birders here: Giant Nuthatch and Hume's Pheasant. Although both of these species are now more accessible at Doi Lang birders are likely to find themselves alone here rather than at the more heavily-visited Doi Lang. Both of these birds occur around the higher areas of the National Park, generally within pine forest, where they have been regularly seen.

Another highly sought-after bird which seems to be fairly regularly encountered at the higher altitudes is Scaly Thrush. Personal experience suggests that it may be the case that some of these sightings might actually be female Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrushes (which is a fairly common bird here) for this species to which it bears a passing resemblance, especially if not seen well.

Grey-headed Parrotbill, Crested Finchbill, various thrushes and Black-tailed Crake are other memorable birds that have been seen higher up the mountain on numerous ocassions.

Scaly-breasted Partridge (Photo by Nick Upton)

The lower levels of Doi Chiang Dao offer the opportunity to see a different set of forest birds and some open country species. In the "spring" months Streaked Wren Babbler is easily spotted near the temple, around the limestone outcrops. Don't confuse this with the similar looking calcicola subspecies of Limestone Wren Babbler which is only found in the region of Saraburi province.

In the gullies and damp patches around the base of the Chiang Dao massif, secretive species such as Slaty-bellied Tesia, Scaly-breasted Partridge, White-crowned Forktail, Hooded Pitta and Rusty-naped Pitta can be discovered with patience. Many of the very few records of Grey-bellied Tesia have been made around these lower, rocky slopes too.

If birders spend time at the top of the mountain, around the lower elevations and visit some of the farmland areas, then a very high number of species are linly to be seen.

A checklist of the birds for this location can be found here - Doi Chiang Dao Bird Checklist

Use the interactive map below to plan your route to Chiang Dao Wildlife Sanctuary. The blue line shows the route from Thapae Gate, Chiang Mai (Blue Pin, "A") to Den Ya Kat (Red Pin, "B") and Wat Tham Pha Plong (C).

By Car/Motocycle
This is by far the easiest way to visit this area with plenty of vehicle hire companies in Chiang Mai at affordable prices. Just take route 107 north, turning left onto the by-pass just before Chiang Dao town and then turning left again towards Wat Tham Ph Plong before which accommodations are situated. Some vehicle rental companies have Toyota pick ups for hire which are capable of driving up to Den Ya Kat in the dry season. The journey from Chiang Mai to Chiang Dao passes through some meandering roads where cars struggle to overtake and there are frequent accidents involving motorcycles; unless one is an experienced motorcycle driver I would not advise using this mode of transport in Thailand.

By Bus
Getting to Doi Chiang Dao is fairly easy. If travelling by bus from Bangkok then one must go to the Mor Chit terminal, from where there are lots of buses every day to Chiang Mai. From Chiang Mai take a bus from the Chang Puek (Albino elephant) bus station to TaTorn; these leave about once every hour. Tell the conductor that you will get off at Chiang Dao and he will tell you when to get off: the journey takes about 2.5 hours. In Chiang Dao walk northwards along the road to the junction for Chiang Dao cave which is signposted in English and wait for a motorcycle taxi. Sometimes one has to wait for 15-20 minutes for the motorcycle but I do not suggest walking as it is about 5 Kms; not that far, but in the heat it is a long way. When a motorcycle taxi turns up simply tell the driver Malee's or Chiang Dao Nest, whichever you have chosen, and the driver will take you there.

If coming from the north it is a simple affair to catch the same bus from TaTorn to Chiang Mai getting off at Chiang Dao. The bus terminal in TaTorn is on the south side of the river. The journey from TaTorn to Chiang Dao takes about 3 hours.

By Taxi
There are few proper taxis in Chiang Mai but certainly from the airport a taxi can be procured, the best way to do this is to go to the public taxi area, just outside of domestic arrivals, and tell the staff where you want to go and they will tell you the price. However, these days the best way of sorting out a taxi is using on of the ride-hailing apps; Grab or Bolt are the ones to download and both are easy to use. If you arrive at your accommodation by taxi then they will be able to arrange a ride for you to your next destination or just use one of the ride-hailing apps for your onward journey.

By Tuk Tuk or Motorcycle Taxi
Tuk tuks are fun to use for short journeys around town but not for long journeys like this and they are also actually rather expensive to use. Far better to use a taxi. Using a motorcycle taxi from Chiang Mai would be very foolish; a long journey on the back of a motorbike through some dangerous traffic and roads. Think about your safety and use a taxi or hire a car.

By Train
Chiang Mai has a teminus station which is connected to Bangkok and various other provincial towns. The State Railways of Thailand website has all the details. From Chiang Mai a hire vehicle, bus or taxi wil be the way to reach Chiang Dao. The train is very slow.

By Plane
Chiang Mai International Airport has large numbers of flights from destinations all over Thailand and some interantional destinations, most notably Hong Kong, Seoul, Singapore, Abu Dhabi, Shanghai and Beijing. Once in Chiang Mai vehicle hire, taxi or bus is the best onward option.

Visiting Den Ya Kat
Whilst staying at Doi Chiang Dao most birders want to take a trip to Den Ya Kat near the summit for the high altitude birds and this can be tricky. First one must get a permit to drive to DYK at park headquarters near Malee's; this is a simple affair. Then drive back to Chiang Dao (where there is a petrol station) and turn south towards Chiang Mai. After precisely 4.9 Kms there is a sign which says "checkpoint 20 Km" which has replaced the former green-roofed bus shelter landmark that is quoted in old trip reports. A series of roads on the right all go towards the dirt track that heads up the mountain and one must simply twist and turn through the maze of roads until they funnel into one. Once this turns into a dirt track the quality deteriorates rapidly. If there has been wet weather the track is very hazardous and a 4-wheel drive vehicle is a must. In the dry season a regular vehicle may be sufficient - maybe not: click here for details of a trip here in 2002.

There rarely seems to be a shortage of birds at Doi Chiang Dao and with two roads to high altitude there are plenty of opportunities to find them. The higher altitudes are where winter specialities such as Thrushes occur as well as resident Giant Nuthatch and Hume's Pheasant.

The lower altitudes play host to large numbers of common forest birds and the gulleys play host to exciting birds such as Rusty-naped Pitta, Hooded Pitta and Tesias. In April and May Streaked Wren Babbler is particularly common at Wat Tam Pa Plong.

A number of trails are well-known for certain species;

Malee's and Chiang Dao Nest : There are many open-country birds to be found in the farmland around these two resorts. Crested Treeswift is a common sight, soaring overhead and a number of different Barbets can be found calling from the many large trees here. It is worth scanning through the grassy areas for Yellow-eyed Babbler, Asian Stubtail and Yellow-streaked Warbler, all of which are rather infrequently recorded in Thailand but regularly sighted here.

Nature Trail : This trail goes through a lot of bamboo forest and commences at Chiang Dao cave. Although not one of the best trails at Chiang Dao it does provide an opportunity to get within a territory regularly held by Oriental Hobby.

Siberian Blue Robin (Photo by Nick Upton)

Temple Gulley :This is one of the most anticipated trails at Chiang Dao. In reality it is very narrow with thick vegetation and it is difficult to get good views of birds here. There are, however, a few places where views become unobstructed so the best policy is to wait at these until birds come along. There are undoubtedly a number of great birds that are often seen along here; Hooded and Rusty-naped Pittas occur but are tricky to see. Slaty-bellied Tesia is sometimes found here, but White-crowned Forktail, Siberian Blue Robin, White-throated Fantail and Streaked Wren Babbler are far easier to find. One has to clamber along the creek bed to negotiate this trail so it is well worth having a decent pair of boots to ensure against slipping on wet rocks. The trail supposedly continues beyond the water tanks which seem to be the trail's end, but I would not suggest this to any but the most athletic birders!

Firebreak Trail : This firebreak around the temple grounds provides an opportunity to get into the forest but is not the easiest to negotiate. I would not recommend it at all after rain as it would be very slippery. Rusty-naped Pitta is apparently a regular along here and Hodgson's Frogmouth has been heard.

Wat Tam Pa Plong: The easily accessed car park and steps to the temple are a great place to get to grips with all of the more common birds to be found here. There are some fruiting trees at the furthest point into the temple where lots of Drongos, Orioles, Bluebirds and Green Pigeons feed. The limestone around the monk's quarters are often a good place to see Streaked Wren Babbler and Speckled Piculet can often be located from its noisy drumming. Spending time in the temple grounds is a good way to see a high number of bird species in a short space of time.

Checkpoint Gulley : This gulley is accessible by a trail which begins a short distance beyond the checkpoint on the Muang Kong road. The vegetation is more open than at temple gulley so that birds are more easily seen. The species occurring here are similar to those at the temple gulley and it is here that most sightings of Tesias occur, including Grey-bellied as well as Slaty-bellied Tesia.

Road to Muang Kong: This road is an excellent location for birding and rises to a considerable altitude giving an opportunity to see some of the birds that do not occur lower down the mountain. Birds such as Long-tailed Minivet, Orange-bellied Leafbird and White-browed Shrike Babbler are commonplace higher up and other treats that I have seen along this road are Oriental Hobby, Pin-tailed Pigeon and Hodgson's Hawk Cuckoo. There is a summit trail from one of the highest points along this road and although the top is still a long way from the start this trail should offer some good birding opportunities.

Firebreak Trail (DYK) :About 1 kilometre before arriving at Den Ya Kat substation there is a sharp turn to the right and here there is a nice trail up a ridge along a firebreak. This trail is straight ahead as one drives towards the sharp right hand turn. There are many pine trees up here and there have been numerous sightings of Hume's Pheasant early in the morning as it crosses the firebreak. Other birds along this trail are Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush, Grey Treepie, Eurasian Jay and Rufous-gorgetted Flycatcher which seems unusually common here.

Summit Trail : This trail starts to the left of the substation, going through some grassland and then along some ridges. Quite a number of good birds can be seen along here, including Stripe-breasted Woodpecker, Hume's Pheasant and, of course, Giant Nuthatch which is reliably seen at the point marked, but naturally should be looked for all along this trail. In the grass quite a number of Bush Warblers skulk, but I've never seen any long enough to identify them; perhaps with the aid of a tape they could be lured out into the open. A small pond at the substation is reputed to be the home of Black-tailed Crake but it would be vital to spend the night here in order to see it, but plenty of other birds including Thrushes and Parrotbills can be seen on a day trip.

Birding Road : Once past the checkpoint the access road becomes a birding location in itself. Giant Nuthatch is often seen along here and Hume's Pheasant is sometimes seen running across the road - try not to run it over! There are plenty of places to stop the car and lots of good habitat where anything could turn up.

Rice paddies: Not so far away, east of Chiang Dao town, is an area of rice fields that provide birders with a completely different set of species than is found upon the mountian. Information is located here: Chiang Dao rice paddies.

For a long time now birders have stayed at Malee's Nature Lovers Bungalows a few kilometres beyond Chiang Dao cave. Malee's set-up is quaint, with some excellent views of the mountains; indeed, many people have been content to spend a day birding from the garden, with some excellent species having been recorded. There are several quite simple bungalows to rent here, set in a very attractive garden, and it is probably the cheapest places in the area to stay which is also reflected in the quality.

Malee's Nature Lovers Bungalows

Malee's is very close to forest at Wat Tham Pha Plong making it an ideal location for going out at night to look for nocturnal species. Packed breakfasts and lunch are also available for those wishing to get out early and stay out all day, particularly if travelling to Den Ya Kat. Malee can arrange for a four-wheel drive vehicle and driver up to Den Ya Kat, something I would recommend if the weather has been wet as the road up Doi Chiang Dao can be a treacherous mudslide.

For those without their own transport Malee can arrange for pickup from Chiang Mai and the airport; a very convenient alternative to public transport! A bird log was started at Malee's some years ago and it continues to be a good source of information. Malee has high speed internet available, so please send me your notable observations.

Close by is Chiang Dao Hut which is a nice alternative where they are also used to dealing with birders and their needs.

At Chiang Dao cave there are a number of restaurants that sell good food for low prices.

For those that wish to camp at Den Ya Kat there are very few facilities, just a lawn for your tent and toilets, so take everything you need with you, although for those who smile and look desperate enough the guards might sort out some alternative accommodation and food, but don't count on it. For the really adventurous it is possible to arrange porters to carry all your equipment to the top of Doi Chiang Dao for a camping trip - everything must be taken in and out as there are no facilities at all there, although there must be some good birds and the views are spectacular.

The entrance fee here is 200 baht and must only be paid if driving to Den Ya Kat substation and is valid for a few days. All other areas can be accessed without paying, although some people have been asked for their ticket when driving the Muang Kong road - keep your ticket from your trip to Den Ya Kat and show it - it should be sufficient.

Doi Chiang Dao Bird Checklist

Birdwatching Tours

Other Northern Thailand Birding Locations

Chiang Dao Paddies

Rice Paddies Near Chiang Dao

Current Entry Fees for National Parks

Air Pollution in Chiang Mai

North & Northeastern Thailand, 28th June-21st July 2007 - by Stephen Totterman

Thailand, 31st March - 13th April 2007 - by Peter Ericsson

Thailand Tour, 11-29 January 2007- by Patrick O'Donnell

Doi Chiang Dao, 2-4th May 2006 - by Dominic Le Croissette

Doi Chiang Dao, 31st December 2005-3rd January 2006 - by Dave Gandy

Northern Thailand, 6-13th October 2004 - by Vincent Van Der Spek

Doi Chiang Dao, 23-26th October 2002 - by Nick Upton

• Silver-eared Mesia - posted 11/01/09
• Tour of Thailand, 17 January to 6 February 2008 - posted 05/03/08

• 16 March 2026, Chiang Dao Wildlife Sanctuary-Wat Tham Pha Plong - by Scott Housten
• 17 December 2025, Chiang Dao Wildlife Sanctuary- Den Ya Kat Vicinity - by Wannapha Phomphumuang
• 16 December 2018, Chiang Dao Wildlife Sanctuary-Wat Tham Pha Plong - by Neil Lawton
• 06 February 2010, Chiang Dao Wildlife Sanctuary-Den Ya Kat Vicinity - by Neil Lawton
• 02 May 2001, Chiang Dao Wildlife Sanctuary-Wat Tham Pha Plong - by Nick Upton

If you found this page useful and want to say thanks, you can buy me a beer.

Email me at nickupton@thaibirding.com

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